Filters: Google "Minimpoar oil filter study" this guy is an engineer who cuts open filters from everywhere as a hobby, and compares them. He likes Purolator Pure One and several of the high end jobs. Not a big Fram and "rebadged" Fram, fan (one croaked a motor on him when it blew its innards he says, and got him started on this quest, plus he tells you who makes what. You'd be surprized. Oil : The major OEM consideration these days, dino oil being so good, is that small savings in fuel accomplished by a thinner oil. In fact, there isn't much difference between a 0-20 and a 5-20. A lot of dealers won't even use the "factory weight oil" if it is hard to find and too expensive. Don't expect to get Toyota oil from a dealer, they all buy in bulk from whoever, and either BS you if you ask or give you some half bleep "reason " why bulk 5-30 is "required" in their area, although if you live in south Florida and the dealer tells you NOT to use a "0W" oil there he is probably right. Mobil One makes a 0-30 you can get at Wally World at a good price and a local "club" here sells Shell (a huge company) syn for 3 bucks a quart on sale. I have a BMW bike and the manual gives a different weight for every 10 degree temp change, while a couple of Saabs I had said 10-30 all the time, any season. When some dealer droid in a white coat tells you a good story about how 5W will tansmoragorify your framatator, I'd like to hear it. I use 5-30 Shell or Mobil syn. Pure One filters, (or OEM Toyota in case lots from Epay) and change between 6000 (winter) and 7500 (summer) If you do it yourself you will pay LESS for syn and a good filter than junk from "Drippylube".

 

At the risk of wearing out the welcome a few words about filter design. Noise on startup, with hydralic lifters especially, can be caused by using a filter with a inferior "anti-backflow valve design". The minimopar website goes into backflow and bypass valve design in detail. The bypass valve works to let oil AROUND the filter element if it clogs, or when the oil is very cold and thick (not a big problem with synthetic) which is another good reason to use syn. The backflow valve "should" keep the filter full after the engine shuts off so the engine isn't starved upon startup. BUT, every SAAB I owned had the filter mounted bottom side UP so the oil NEVER ran out. No need for an antibackflow in that application. (Had to be careful changing it, though) None of my 3 Camrys have filters so mounted, the Gen 4 I4's are almost vertical the WRONG way. Good reason to use a filter with a good antibackflow valve I suppose, and I do. FIlter elements are either treated paper or some sort of synthetic fabric. If they work TOO well (small pores) they may clog too soon and you are running on unfiltered oil through the "bypass. If the pores are too BIG the filter won't grab all the dirt. My practice is to use the biggest filter that fits the "boss" some folks have no problems using V6 Filters on the I 4, for example, but I noticed Toyota kept increasing the filter height on the I4 in later models, so it holds more oil and has a bigger element, and I
bought that filter for my older cars. Purolater makes a 14477 which is for the 2001 I4 and newer, it fits the older cars with no problems. If fact, I have heard that Toyota has discontinued the older, smaller filter numbers and now lists their version of the 14477 for all the Gen 3 and 4 - I 4 engines. SAAB and Volvo used to use a PH 16, ( an old mopar number) the huge Ford PH 8, about twice the size and found everywhere fit the mount and I used them for 100's of thousands of miles. I have not crawled under a new V6 Camry but I understand that filter may be mounted upside down like the older Saabs.

 

BTW "Pep Boys" here in the northeast sells Purolator filters under the "Proline" name, but they use the same Purolator numbers. You can save about a buck a filter for the same product.

 

For those of us who are care about their cars, this business of NOT letting you watch (through a window or whatever) you car being "serviced" at a dealership is a vehicle for taking advantage of us. I read a sarcastic post on a "high end" European car site from a so called (and screen named) "technician" who said that when the fussy bleep bleep owners came in for an oil change with 6 quarts of Mobil One and a 10 dollar Mobile One filter in a little box on the floor of the superior European car and a USE MY OIL ONLY note taped to the wheel, the stuff got used all right, in the technician's car, and if there was a Mobil One filter already ON the car, for example, IT got spun off, drained, washed in the parts washer and put back on so the new filter went "elsewhere" as well. Good arguement for sticking with an independant with a good reputation, and a window!

 

just got updated maintenance manual. says change 0w-20 oil once per year or 10k miles. 5w-20 is ok in a pinch but put 0w-20 in within 6 months. seems 0w is good for cold start emissions reduction. seems to me 20w is the important number since 99% of your driving is done with a hot motor. is cold start rattle anything to be concerned about? letter also says receipts for proof of maintenance may not be required in most warranty claims. hmm?

 

used 10w-30 on my 92 4 cyl and 93 v-6 over 600,000 total and never a internal eng problem. I try and use penzole but will use wal-mart brand high milage. I always add a half of quart of Lucas to the oil. The key is every 4000 miles, keep the oil full, and use a good oil filter.