Hello, I have 235,000 on my 2004 4 cyl Camry. I'm asking for help identifying what I should do preventatively to keep her going. I’ve had her since 25K.



No hard driving. Oil changes regularly.

Minor and expected repairs as needed so far.

Front O2

Valve cover gasket, twice.

PCV

OEM spark plugs

Denso, larger, radiator

Dog bone

Front pads and rotors.

All other parts and fluids are original.



What would you suggest for a list of things to work through? Smallest to largest? Most important?

Thank you for any advice!!

 

If the trans has 235K on the original fluid that's a LOT of miles. Determine when the transmission fluid was changed. Check its color using the paper towel method (search internet on who to do this). This may be the biggest concern. Worn out trans fluid is the number cause of trans failure.

You replaced the radiator which is good as the upper and lower radiator covers are plastic and can crack with age. Assume coolant was changed. Keep an eye on the coolant hose condition. Keep on eye on the water pump for coolant weeping at the drain hole as a result of a failed bearing seal.

Can change the power steering fluid by removing old fluid from reservoir and adding new. Repeat between your drives until the fluid is clean. Clean fluid will prolong power steering component life.

As a heads up might read up on possible oil consumption issues for this engine. A 2AZFE. Here regular oil changes might help.

Run AC for 20+ minutes per week to circulate the oil in the Freon and lube the pump and seals.

If you want to try to prolong fuel pump life keep the tank at least 1/4 full as the fuel helps cool the pump.

Listen for changes in sound from the timing chain cover (rattle). The VVTi or chain tensioner can start to fail..

The rest is repair as required.

 

Hello toyomoho, and thank you and others. Some follow-up Q&A please

1. Transmission “seems” Okay or I just got used to how it shifts. I remember an old rule was that if you haven’t changed Trans fluid on an older car, Don’t. The theory was that the “grit was allowing old worn plates to shift and replacing the fluid would cause the Trans to slip.. True? Never changed fluid, color is fair. If you still suggest changing, would a couple of drain and fills be sufficient? I can do that but not a flush.
2. I’ll turkey baste the Power steering fluid.
3. Radiator hoses are fair. New coolant with Radiator change.
4. AC still works Great.
5. Oil consumption is fine. Maybe a half Qt every 3k
6. Motor mounts look cracked but handles Okay. New upper dog bone.
7. Slight smell of raw exhaust only when sitting for over a day. I suspect one of the a fuel injectors leaking/dripping gas to the cylinder. Maybe? How to confirm? Replace all?
8. Original Coils and wires.
9. Also, last year I did replace the starter
10. Main question is.. Suggest wait for warning signs or failure for:
    1. Water Pump?
    2. Fuel Pump?
    3. Timing chain components?
    4. Other

Thank you!!

 

To change old trans fluid or not? For sure if not changed the trans will fail sooner than later. The issue may be doing a power flush perhaps with cleaning chemicals. Here debris gets washed away to plug everything up. Perhaps the trans clutch plates no longer have function when squeaky clean.

From a professional repair shop standpoint changing the never changed fluid might lead to a failed trans. Here the car owner will take recourse with the shop for relief so why risk it to make a few dollars in maintenance work.

The idea is to gently move out the old fluid to be replaced with new. One can use the transmissions own oil pump to do this. Fill trans pan with new fluid. Pump it out by disconnecting trans oil return line from the oil cooler and letting it drain out as the engine runs. Repeat the trans pan fill and pump out until the fluid coming out is clear. Gently and effective. If a trans pan hold 2 1/2 plus quarts then stop the engine when less than 2 quarts comes out to prevent running the pump out of fluid.

Drop trans pan and check for debris in pan, metal debris on the pan magnets and pump intake screen for debris.

A/C seals can dry out thus the 20 minutes per week to circulate the lube mixed with the Freon.

As to the life of individual components. Some are a guess as to when they might fail, while others might give you a warning they are going bad.

Original water pump seems to have a long life. Watch the weep hole if present underneath the input shaft housing boss.

Fuel pump can go a long time but can give zero indication its going to fail and then leave you stuck. If changing this get a Denso brand which Toyota owns a stake in the company.

Timing chain can start rattling around. The chain stretches and the guides wear out.

The engine has a VVTi system which can start to make noise, rattle or knock. The VVTi replaces the intake cam pulley. This can be rebuild or a part change. Sometimes a failing VVTi will set a trouble code. The filter for the VVTi can plug up.

For noise, the timing chain area noise will be along the timing chain cover. The VVTi is at the top of the cover where the intake cam pulley is.

Coils or coil wire failure may give you an indication as a trouble code first for a misfire or you might fell the misfire. Operate engine in the dark and check wires for electrical arcing.

For leaking injectors the typical procedure is to remove them and operate under pressure to visually check for leaks.

One can install a fuel pressure gauge on the line going to the injector. There may be a quick disconnect fitting here.

Run engine and turn off. If the leak is bad enough the pressure will drop faster than normal. What is normal? Engine operating fuel pressure is 44 to 50 psi. Turn off engine. Fuel pressure should be at least 21 psi after 20 minutes.

 

Thanks. So are you recomending a drain a fill for Trans? Either at a shop or me?
I'll monitor the other suggestions.
Thank you

 

YOU can do a drain/refill or a complete change. The internet has threads and perhaps video's on doing a complete change as described in previous responses.