Temp Switch Keeps Creeping Up???
#1
Temp Switch Keeps Creeping Up???
My 96 LE Camry, 4 cylinder started to over heat in Dec. Here is what I have done and what I still see as an issue. Any input would be helpful..Thanks
Dec:
replaced the thermostat. Car continued to run hot.
Jan:
replaced water pump, thermostat sensor at the thermostat housing, number one fan relay. Continued to run hot
Jan:
Went to radiator shop, determined thermostat was not working, replaced aftermarket with OEM and replaced heat sensor at the bottom of the radiator.
Side note is the radiator is less than two years old and an OEM part
The car runs normal while on the road with no issues. Until I come to a stop and then the gauge that is running just shy of half, which is where it has always run. Will creep up to 3/4 and stay there. I've watched to see if the number one fan comes on and it will for a few seconds then kick off. Once I start to drive the gauge will return to normal. If I turn on the AC it will run normal no matter what. That's because both fans are running
I'm really at a lose as to what it could be now. I had a local radiator shop check the temp at all ranges and its running in operating temps
Something is not telling the number one fan to kick on earlier.
Ideas???? Again thanks
Dec:
replaced the thermostat. Car continued to run hot.
Jan:
replaced water pump, thermostat sensor at the thermostat housing, number one fan relay. Continued to run hot
Jan:
Went to radiator shop, determined thermostat was not working, replaced aftermarket with OEM and replaced heat sensor at the bottom of the radiator.
Side note is the radiator is less than two years old and an OEM part
The car runs normal while on the road with no issues. Until I come to a stop and then the gauge that is running just shy of half, which is where it has always run. Will creep up to 3/4 and stay there. I've watched to see if the number one fan comes on and it will for a few seconds then kick off. Once I start to drive the gauge will return to normal. If I turn on the AC it will run normal no matter what. That's because both fans are running
I'm really at a lose as to what it could be now. I had a local radiator shop check the temp at all ranges and its running in operating temps
Something is not telling the number one fan to kick on earlier.
Ideas???? Again thanks
#2
As the engine is only overheating when the car is not moving the issue could be one or more fans.
Make sure both fans work when the AC system is on.
The test of the fan system is to unplug the electrical connection at the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. When this switch is unplugged both fans should turn on (ign switch is on). The system is designed that when this temp switch opens (not closes) the fans turn on. If the plug is removed and the don't operate there is a problem with the wiring or a relay.
You can simulate the cooling system action by removing the radiator cap and installing a thermometer such as cooking into the coolant. Let engine warm up. Both fans should turn on when the coolant temp reaches around 199F. If not and now the temp gauge is climbing something is wrong in the wiring, one of the relays controlling the fans, etc.
Make sure both fans work when the AC system is on.
The test of the fan system is to unplug the electrical connection at the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. When this switch is unplugged both fans should turn on (ign switch is on). The system is designed that when this temp switch opens (not closes) the fans turn on. If the plug is removed and the don't operate there is a problem with the wiring or a relay.
You can simulate the cooling system action by removing the radiator cap and installing a thermometer such as cooking into the coolant. Let engine warm up. Both fans should turn on when the coolant temp reaches around 199F. If not and now the temp gauge is climbing something is wrong in the wiring, one of the relays controlling the fans, etc.
#3
As the engine is only overheating when the car is not moving the issue could be one or more fans.
Make sure both fans work when the AC system is on.
The test of the fan system is to unplug the electrical connection at the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. When this switch is unplugged both fans should turn on (ign switch is on). The system is designed that when this temp switch opens (not closes) the fans turn on. If the plug is removed and the don't operate there is a problem with the wiring or a relay.
You can simulate the cooling system action by removing the radiator cap and installing a thermometer such as cooking into the coolant. Let engine warm up. Both fans should turn on when the coolant temp reaches around 199F. If not and now the temp gauge is climbing something is wrong in the wiring, one of the relays controlling the fans, etc.
Make sure both fans work when the AC system is on.
The test of the fan system is to unplug the electrical connection at the temp switch on the bottom of the radiator. When this switch is unplugged both fans should turn on (ign switch is on). The system is designed that when this temp switch opens (not closes) the fans turn on. If the plug is removed and the don't operate there is a problem with the wiring or a relay.
You can simulate the cooling system action by removing the radiator cap and installing a thermometer such as cooking into the coolant. Let engine warm up. Both fans should turn on when the coolant temp reaches around 199F. If not and now the temp gauge is climbing something is wrong in the wiring, one of the relays controlling the fans, etc.
I did have the radiator shop that installed the new T-stat run a test and even when the temp gauge reads 3/4 mark its running with in right temp range.
This really boils down to the gauge moving up once the motor is hot without the AC on. The number one fan will kick on when the temp gauge hits the 3/4 mark, comes back to just about half and then will go back up and repeat itself.
#4
Given the shop tested the coolant temps are you sure the coolant was actually too hot?
The needle on the temp gauge should stay put even with engine idling and A/C off. The fan(s) will cycle but the needle stays put.
If coolant temps are OK might be the sender for the temp gauge is bad.
The needle on the temp gauge should stay put even with engine idling and A/C off. The fan(s) will cycle but the needle stays put.
If coolant temps are OK might be the sender for the temp gauge is bad.
#5
Given the shop tested the coolant temps are you sure the coolant was actually too hot?
The needle on the temp gauge should stay put even with engine idling and A/C off. The fan(s) will cycle but the needle stays put.
If coolant temps are OK might be the sender for the temp gauge is bad.
The needle on the temp gauge should stay put even with engine idling and A/C off. The fan(s) will cycle but the needle stays put.
If coolant temps are OK might be the sender for the temp gauge is bad.
#8
Thanks for the help, I learned thought all of this that OEM parts are the way to go on abuot any fix.
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