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toyota parts only??
#1
02-13-2011, 04:23 PM
toyota parts only??
1993 Camry 4 Cyl....280K
looking to replace the Vacuum switching valve and MAP sensor due to their age on the car and I have no way of testing them electronically to see that they work properly......
should I stick with original toyota parts, or are there some good cheaper aftermarket parts to get for either of these??
I found this link below for the VSV so far...
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...ing_valve.html
looking to replace the Vacuum switching valve and MAP sensor due to their age on the car and I have no way of testing them electronically to see that they work properly......
should I stick with original toyota parts, or are there some good cheaper aftermarket parts to get for either of these??
I found this link below for the VSV so far...
http://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/199...ing_valve.html
#2
02-13-2011, 09:54 PM
You can apply 12V power to the switch. It should flow air between the center tube and the one near the plug.
When off between the center and the round air filter at the other end.
Why do you think the MAP sensor is bad? Try a junkyard, the aftermarket units are $200+, Toyota would even higher.
Try rockauto for parts.
When off between the center and the round air filter at the other end.
Why do you think the MAP sensor is bad? Try a junkyard, the aftermarket units are $200+, Toyota would even higher.
Try rockauto for parts.
#3
02-14-2011, 08:07 AM
You can apply 12V power to the switch. It should flow air between the center tube and the one near the plug.
When off between the center and the round air filter at the other end.
Why do you think the MAP sensor is bad? Try a junkyard, the aftermarket units are $200+, Toyota would even higher.
Try rockauto for parts.
When off between the center and the round air filter at the other end.
Why do you think the MAP sensor is bad? Try a junkyard, the aftermarket units are $200+, Toyota would even higher.
Try rockauto for parts.
I installed it not knowing how to test it...
should air flow freely through it with the cylinder cap on it and blowing through one of the vacuum leads?
How do I test it?
Should I get a new VSV from Partsgeek.com ($30)? I hear that some of the new aftermarket parts are not good to use for Toyota specs...
#4
02-14-2011, 11:11 AM
The VSV is just an DC electrical solenoid air valve, an aftermarket part should be fine.
If you have an ohm meter check the resistance between the two electrical terminals on the valve, should be 33-39 ohm cold.
Check the ohm reading between each electrical terminal and the metal valve body, should be infinite (no continuity).
When the valve is NOT powered by 12V DC there should be air flow between the middle pipe (pipe E) and the pipe sticking out the end where the electrical plug is (pipe G).
When 12V is applied and the switch turned on. Air flow applied to pipe E should no longer flow out Pipe G but now out the opposite end of the valve (the cylinder cap).
Make sure you connect the right hose to the right pipe.
If you have an ohm meter check the resistance between the two electrical terminals on the valve, should be 33-39 ohm cold.
Check the ohm reading between each electrical terminal and the metal valve body, should be infinite (no continuity).
When the valve is NOT powered by 12V DC there should be air flow between the middle pipe (pipe E) and the pipe sticking out the end where the electrical plug is (pipe G).
When 12V is applied and the switch turned on. Air flow applied to pipe E should no longer flow out Pipe G but now out the opposite end of the valve (the cylinder cap).
Make sure you connect the right hose to the right pipe.
#5
02-14-2011, 11:24 AM
The VSV is just an DC electrical solenoid air valve, an aftermarket part should be fine.
If you have an ohm meter check the resistance between the two electrical terminals on the valve, should be 33-39 ohm cold.
Check the ohm reading between each electrical terminal and the metal valve body, should be infinite (no continuity).
When the valve is NOT powered by 12V DC there should be air flow between the middle pipe (pipe E) and the pipe sticking out the end where the electrical plug is (pipe G).
When 12V is applied and the switch turned on. Air flow applied to pipe E should no longer flow out Pipe G but now out the opposite end of the valve (the cylinder cap).
Make sure you connect the right hose to the right pipe.
If you have an ohm meter check the resistance between the two electrical terminals on the valve, should be 33-39 ohm cold.
Check the ohm reading between each electrical terminal and the metal valve body, should be infinite (no continuity).
When the valve is NOT powered by 12V DC there should be air flow between the middle pipe (pipe E) and the pipe sticking out the end where the electrical plug is (pipe G).
When 12V is applied and the switch turned on. Air flow applied to pipe E should no longer flow out Pipe G but now out the opposite end of the valve (the cylinder cap).
Make sure you connect the right hose to the right pipe.
it may be a bad unit, so I may have to get a new one. Partsgeek has it for $30...
#7
02-14-2011, 07:56 PM
I suggest go to the original toyota parts rather than other cheap products but not sure if its good.
#8
02-15-2011, 08:33 AM
But, the idle still could be smoother. How much difference in the idle can replacing a bad VSV make? Does the VSV effect the idle any??
#10
02-15-2011, 11:59 AM
the "used" VSV I installed from the junkyard doesn;t leak any vacuum, but is probably not working properly as the resistance test with on ohm meter between the 2 electrical plug contacts registered "zero" (ohm meter needle went all the way to the right showing no resistance at all)
But if the VSV is bad and not working properly, then the vacuum is flowing freely through it causing the EGR to be "open" during idle, correct? which also can cause a possible rough idle?
Like I say, it runs fantastic with good MPG and upon acceleration now that I don;'t have any vacuum leaks. I've done everything else recommended on this site to cure the idle porblem up until I officially found the vacuum leak coming from the broken VSV this weekend.
over the last 6 months...(surpised that all this below didn;t cost all together but about $160 and my labor)
replaced all vacuum hoses
cleaned EGR valve and inlet
replaced EGR module (used from junkyard and worked properly upon inspection)
cleaned IAC valve by spraying carb cleaner in the TB inlet
replaced MAP sensor (used from junkyard and performance better afterwards)
replaced coolant temp sensor
replaced O2 sensor
replaced BVSV (Used from junkyard, good upon inspection before installing)
new cap and rotor, plugs and wires
cleaned injectors with sea foam
replaced distributer coil
Last edited by brianjrealtor; 02-15-2011 at 12:08 PM.