Hello, Is there any videos on how to change the AFT on a 2006 Camry Toyota? This will be my first time doing this to this car, I don't want to get under there and start before I get to know as much as I can first. Thank you.

 

Try YouTube.

Look on the side of the drivers door for a sticker stating which trans model the car has. The model number should start with a "U", as in U140F, U240E, U241E, etc.

Be sure to use the recommended fluid type for the trans model.

 

You have two routes you can take. I would recommend that at some point, depending on how many miles you have on your Camry, that you SERIOUSLY consider changing the transmission filter. It is a bit more involved, but very doable. I will walk you through that in this post as well.

To just change the fluid, be aware that the pan only holds 1/3 of the total fluid. So just drain/refill will not get the job done. You can drain, refill, run, repeat about 3-4 times, but what a pain. Better to do this. All this is predicated on you have a trans dipstick, which I think you do (?)


Home Flush route


Tools/materials:


ATF fluid. I like Valvoline Maxlife. Good stuff. Just be sure to match your specs (Type -IV or WS) with the info on the back of the bottle. You’ll probably need about 12 quarts.

Proper socket for the Trans pan bolt. Mine uses a 17mm hex I believe - check the specs for yours.

New crush washer for the trans pan bolt.

About 2 foot of 3/8 tubing.

A few old gallon sized oil or whatever jug with quart gradients on the side.

Large capacity oil catch container.

Angled needle nose come in handy to remove the return hose clamp.
An old rug or large piece of wood panel comes in handy to lay under the oil catch container. Trans fluid always seems to miss the pan!

Jack up the car, put the jack stands in place, and line up your container to catch the old oil. Break loose the pan bolt and remove it to drain out the old fluid. Best if you had it warm to begin with so it will flow freely. Really let it drip for a while to get as much out as possible. Once that is good, put on the new crush washer and tighten the bolt. Understand there is still a fair amount of fluid in the pan, due to the design of it. And that fluid is probably gunky, which is why at some point you will want to remove the pan and change the filter.


Check your owner’s manual for the proper refill amount, and refill the trans via the dipstick tube. Don’t go over.


Now, crawl back under and remove the return hose from the radiator. It is on the bottom, and the hose closest to the driver side. There are two hoses for the trans – supply and return. You are removing the return hose. Here the angled needle nose come in handy to get the clamp off. You may need to work the tube a bit with a small flat screwdriver to break it loose from the nipple on the radiator.

Slip on your 3/8 tubing to the radiator nipple, and drop it into your old oil or whatever jug. Start the car, and allow a quart to pump out of the transmission. Shut off the car, and put 1 quart back in via the dipstick tube. Repeat this process until the fluid coming out is new. May take 7 or so quarts.

Now you have totally new fluid in the trans.

Filter change


All the same tools plus:


New filter kit (includes a pan gasket)


17mm deep socket

10mm socket


Slim ¼ ratchet with swivel head and 10mm socket will help to get to a few hard to reach pan bolts

Drain the pan as above, and then replace the drain bolt.


There is a transmission mount to the left of the pan (looking up at it when on your back under the car). It has three 17mm nuts you remove to allow you to jack up the transmission a bit so you can access some of the pan bolts that are covered by the frame. Two of those nuts are under plastic circular caps on the frame.
Once you remove those nuts, jack up the tranny (not on the pan) a bit until the studs on the mount just about clear the frame. This will give you enough room to get to the 5 or so hard to access pan bolts. Remove those (10mm), then I would lower the trans back down to get everything level.


Remove the remaining pan bolts. Be aware that the pan holds fluid even after draining, so watch yourself, tilting it will dump a lot of foul fluid everywhere. This is why I like an old rug or wood to catch spills.


The old filter is held in place by three bolts. They are pretty obvious. Remove those and pull off the filter. It holds fluid as well, so watch out for it spilling out. Note that there is an o-ring that slips into place on the filter. If it does not come off, pry it out of the neck where the filter seats. Again, will be obvious. A new ring will be included in the filter kit.


Coat the new o-ring with fluid and press it into place, bolt in the new filter.


Clean the pan out. Note the two magnets – clean them and make sure to replace them in their locations. You may be surprised at the gunk, which is why it is necessary to change this occasionally. Brake cleaner works well to clean the pan out. Just be sure to dry the pan and make sure it is clean before putting it back on.


Make sure the mating surfaces for the gasket are clean. Put the gasket on the pan – you can hold it in place with a bolt or two. Reseat the pan and snug up a few bolts to get the pan to line up. Jack back up the tranny to put in place the hard to access bolts.


Tighten in a criss cross pattern – 8 ft lbs for torque. Do not over torque! I busted a bolt and had to tap it out. Sucked.



Once all the bolts are on and snug, lower the trans back down and replace the three 17 mm nuts on the mount.


Then do all the same as above as to refill, flush out the old fluid, etc.


I have my pan apart working on a busted trans wire, so will take pics and post them up for you. Hope to have all that done this weekend.

 

DIYDAD, How do I tell what type, -IV or WS? Thanks.

 

Your manual will tell you the type you need, and on the back of the jug it will state if it is -IV or WS compatible. If you can't locate your owner's manual, just Google your vehicle. Make sure you get the transmission correct (as in, mine is the U250e).

 

On the door sticker it says 04A/U250E, So what type of Valvoline maxlife should i use? There's a bottle of maxlife that had the dex/mercon label on it, an they were other types of maxlife, or do I just look at the back of the bottle to see if I can use it for T-IV, which i think my car uses, 2006 camry 4cyl automatic.

 

Dex/Mercon II and III were used in earlier model cars.

Toyota calls out Toyota T-IV for the U250E which is supposed to be Mobil 3309. Its supposed to be a reformulated Dexron/Mercon III (has more additives)

WS is synthetic specified for later modal cars. Supposed to be a synthetic upgrade to T-IV.

The Valvoline website states Maxlife Dex/Merc ATF is suitable for replacing Toyota T, T-III, T-IV and WS.

http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/maxlife_atf.pdf

 

DIYDAD, those bolts to raise the transmission, would that the same with my camry2006 4cyl automatic? Cause I had seen a video of an trans filter change on a camry, really don't know what yr it was,, but it looked like he didn't have to raise the trans to get the pan and filter off.

 

DIYDAD, just another ?, On that jacking up the tranny to get clear of the mount to get those screws, the ? is, I have only 2 jack stands and a floor jack, now with the 2 jack stands holding the front end up, and the floor jack to lift the tranny up to get to the bolts, the car would be in a angle, the front end higher then the back, hope you know what I am trying to explain. would that still work, even if the whole car is not level?

 

I'll post a link to another site that has an excellent DIY with pics to walk through this. Your 2006 should be the same as what I described. Valve line Maxlife should cover both IV and WS so it is good to go.

When you jack up the trans, the car will start to rise up a bit, but it will stop and the trans will just lift. You might be able to access the pan bolts without too much lift - just watch that you don't lift off the jack stands. I found that with a 10mm slim ratcheting wrench I did not need to lift it too high. But there is about 3 bolts you just can't get to without some lifting. It's ok it is not perfectly level - I prefer it mostly level to remove the filter just to avoid fluid sloshing out of it immediately.