1990 Camry won't start.
#11
05-21-2011, 10:38 PM
Typically issues are ign spark or fuel.
Check for spark first. Remove the ign wire on the distributor cap that comes from the coil. Hold about 1/2 inch from a ground point on the chassis (something not painted).
There should be a healthy spark.
Check for ign spark at each plug wire.
The ign coil can crack resulting in problems, inspect the coil for cracks in the case.
A poor spark can cause all kinds of problems.
If the ign spark is OK, check for fuel. Remove the spark plugs, crank engine over and look for signs of fuel in the cylinders. You may be able to smell this.
Sometimes the cold start injector system does not work, the result is hard starting. The manual should have something on this.
If you don't think the engine is getting fuel listen for the fuel pump running. The manual will show where the pump is.
If you read the manual there is a way to bypass the fuel system relays. This allows for checking fuel pump operation when the ign key is on or forcing the pump to run.
Check for spark first. Remove the ign wire on the distributor cap that comes from the coil. Hold about 1/2 inch from a ground point on the chassis (something not painted).
There should be a healthy spark.
Check for ign spark at each plug wire.
The ign coil can crack resulting in problems, inspect the coil for cracks in the case.
A poor spark can cause all kinds of problems.
If the ign spark is OK, check for fuel. Remove the spark plugs, crank engine over and look for signs of fuel in the cylinders. You may be able to smell this.
Sometimes the cold start injector system does not work, the result is hard starting. The manual should have something on this.
If you don't think the engine is getting fuel listen for the fuel pump running. The manual will show where the pump is.
If you read the manual there is a way to bypass the fuel system relays. This allows for checking fuel pump operation when the ign key is on or forcing the pump to run.
#12
05-23-2011, 10:32 PM
I have taken a few stabs at getting it going, to no avail. I took apart the distributor and checked it for cracks and/or corrosion and it looked to me like it was in fine condition. The rotor seemed clean enough and the four terminals inside the casing were only somewhat corroded (I cleaned them up with some sand paper). One of the three mounting screws wouldn't thread tight (the integrity of the plastic has been compromised), which means the distributor cap is slightly loose. I'm not sure if that's a big issue or not.
I have had some difficulty identifying the different components. I wasn't sure if the ignition wire (coming from the coil) was on the outside of the plastic protective covering of the distributor or if it is on the inside of the unit (i.e. I'd have to remove the cover to check for spark). When I think about it, I don't think I was checking for a spark in the right area....I think I was checking all the fuseable links (which can be quite a challenge to pinch and remove!) in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Would the ignition wire be pretty much a bare wire?
I could definitely smell fuel being drawn into the engine, suggesting to me that the fuel pump et al. are all OK and the problem lies with the spark somewhere.
I think I'm going to buy a voltmeter and an ohmmeter to check the various components. Maybe I can narrow down where the problem actually lies.
Hopefully what I've written here will help to pinpoint where I'm going wrong (other than refusing to get off my wallet and buy a newer vehicle!)
Cheers,
-Mike
I have had some difficulty identifying the different components. I wasn't sure if the ignition wire (coming from the coil) was on the outside of the plastic protective covering of the distributor or if it is on the inside of the unit (i.e. I'd have to remove the cover to check for spark). When I think about it, I don't think I was checking for a spark in the right area....I think I was checking all the fuseable links (which can be quite a challenge to pinch and remove!) in the vicinity of the distributor cap. Would the ignition wire be pretty much a bare wire?
I could definitely smell fuel being drawn into the engine, suggesting to me that the fuel pump et al. are all OK and the problem lies with the spark somewhere.
I think I'm going to buy a voltmeter and an ohmmeter to check the various components. Maybe I can narrow down where the problem actually lies.
Hopefully what I've written here will help to pinpoint where I'm going wrong (other than refusing to get off my wallet and buy a newer vehicle!)
Cheers,
-Mike
#14
05-25-2011, 12:03 AM
Not quite sure. I will have to investigate a little closer. I'm still not clear on what the coil is, what it looks like, etc. I bought an ohmmeter and voltmeter today, maybe that'll help me pinpoint things a little better.
I ain't even close to givin' up yet.
Cheers,
-Mike
I ain't even close to givin' up yet.
Cheers,
-Mike
#15
05-25-2011, 12:23 PM
Coil locations and design can change with engine year and model.
Follow the spark plug wires back to the coils.
Look at the distributor cap if it has one. If it has only 1 cable for each cylinder spark plug the coil is built into the distributor. If it has 1 additional cable this leads to the remote coil.
Some cars have no distributor but use remote pickups at the cam and or crank pulleys. The coil(s) may mounted remotely. One coil may fire 2 cylinders (as one cylinder is on the exhaust stroke this spark has no effect).
Newer cars have the coil and igniter built into one unit that plugs into the spark plug tube. Sometimes each spark plug has its own coil-igniter. Sometimes 2 cylinders share a coil-igniter. The coil-igniter plugs into one spark plug tube, an ign cable runs from the coil/igniter to another spark plug tube.
Follow the spark plug wires back to the coils.
Look at the distributor cap if it has one. If it has only 1 cable for each cylinder spark plug the coil is built into the distributor. If it has 1 additional cable this leads to the remote coil.
Some cars have no distributor but use remote pickups at the cam and or crank pulleys. The coil(s) may mounted remotely. One coil may fire 2 cylinders (as one cylinder is on the exhaust stroke this spark has no effect).
Newer cars have the coil and igniter built into one unit that plugs into the spark plug tube. Sometimes each spark plug has its own coil-igniter. Sometimes 2 cylinders share a coil-igniter. The coil-igniter plugs into one spark plug tube, an ign cable runs from the coil/igniter to another spark plug tube.
#16
06-22-2011, 11:53 AM
Cure for No Start
Cure for No start wont Start
if engine has not been started in a while
1)Remove spark plug.
2) squirt 4 squirts of Oil
into cylinder.
3) Replace spark plug
4) Repeat for Each spark plug.
5 ) Turn Key, and Hear that wonderful Sound!
.
if engine has not been started in a while
1)Remove spark plug.
2) squirt 4 squirts of Oil
into cylinder.
3) Replace spark plug
4) Repeat for Each spark plug.
5 ) Turn Key, and Hear that wonderful Sound!
.
Last edited by EarlT; 06-22-2011 at 11:57 AM.
#18
06-24-2011, 02:49 AM
Ok, I'm going to give this a try but what kind of oil do I squirt into the cylinder?
I bought new plugs, too. It's not going to hurt.
Thanks,
-Mike.
I bought new plugs, too. It's not going to hurt.
Thanks,
-Mike.
#19
06-25-2011, 08:22 PM
4 Squirts of Motor Oil
4 Squirts of Motor Oil
into the spark plug Hole,
that will Seal the cylinder,
and Raise the Compression,
which will help the Engine to Start,
cause if theengine sits too long,
the Rings stop sealing and compression drops,
which makes for Hard Starting.
.
into the spark plug Hole,
that will Seal the cylinder,
and Raise the Compression,
which will help the Engine to Start,
cause if theengine sits too long,
the Rings stop sealing and compression drops,
which makes for Hard Starting.
.
Last edited by EarlT; 06-25-2011 at 08:24 PM.