Hi,

I've got a 1995 Camry. I got it a 4 years ago with 60k miles. It now has 120k miles. It's been a great car.

I know the original owner. They always serviced at the dealer. I service it regularly too, at least with oil and trans fluid.

A few days ago, it stalled at an intersection when my wife was driving it. It started back up and she went a short distance and stalled again. She limped to the side of the road and parked it.

The check engine light did not come on.

Yesterday, I went to get it. It started fine and I let it idle for five minutes. It idled perfectly fine. I could even rev it slowly and the rpms ran up just fine.

However, when I put it in gear and try to accelerate, it missed out badly and would stall.

I was able to drive it home, but I had to be careful. If I accelerated slowly it would generally be ok. If I punched the gas at all, it would stall.

There's a small steep hill near my house. It stalled as I was trying to go up the hill and I got stuck 1/2 way up the hill. I could start it back up easily and put it in gear (automatic trans), but once I pressed the gas pedal, it would stall. I finally was able to get up the hill by putting it in gear and just barely pressing the gas pedal and going very slow.

Basically, whenever I tried to put any load on it more than an idle, it would miss poorly and stall.

Also, if I punch the gas pedal when it's idling in park, it will miss badly. If I slowly press the gas pedal, it will rev up ok without missing.

Ideas?

 

Check ign system, plugs, cap, rotor, wires. Might have a misfire under load.

Check fuel pressure/pump/filter. To low of pressure or fuel fuel will cause lack of power. There is a can type fuel filter but it seldom plugs up.

If a 4 cylinder check MAP sensor.

 

Thanks, I bought a dist. cap, rotor, plugs, wires, fuel filter. I have the dist. cap off. How do I pull the rotor off? I pulled pretty firmly and it doesn't just slide out.

Do I actually have to pull the distributor from the block to get the rotor off?

Here's a pic of the distributor with the cap off, showing the rotor.

http://bit.ly/vYLBkO

 

The rotor is most likely stuck on the shaft. The rotor presses onto the distributor shaft.

Use a flat blade screwdriver to pry between the rotor and plastic cover under it. But first find something such as a thin steel plate to place on top of the plastic cover. This will distribute the force of the screwdriver blade on the plastic cover and prevent it from punching through the plastic.

Slowly pry one side of the rotor, then the other as close to the rotor shaft as possible.

When you are in the area of the coil check the coil ohm resistances

Primary hot 0.45-0.65 ohm, cold 0.36-0.55 ohm

Secondary hot 11.4-18.1K ohm, cold 9.0K-15.4K ohm, cold

 

I think, not necessarily but if needed you should do it.

 

Just replace the distributor cap; spark plugs and spark plug wires. I bet it runs perfect after that.
Be very careful trying to remove the rotor; you could break something in the process.!!! Probably not necessary to replace it; unless you can get some professional help from a mechanic.

 

So, I was able to get the rotor off without damaging the plastic at all. I replaced the plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor.

Fired it up.

It sputtered a bit in the beginning, but then cranked up ok.

The heavy load thing is definitely fixed. I can go up a hill no problem. Doesn't miss a beat.

However, if I let it sit and idle, it will be ok for 15-20 seconds, but then it will start to misfire quite a bit and if I let it idle long enough (a few minutes), it will eventually die. Mind you, I can drive it all around town no problem. Accelerates fine, etc, but if I pull up to the stop light and sit there long enough, it will eventually start to misfire and then die.

Ideas?

 

Misfire or the idle gradually lowers until the engine dies?

 

"Misfire or the idle gradually lowers until the engine dies?"

It starts to misfire. I shot a video of the tachometer starting it and showing it running at idle.

At :36, I punched the gas pedal. Otherwise, I'm not touching the gas pedal at all.

1995_Camry_1.mp4 - YouTube

Could the timing be off even though I didn't pull the distributor from the block?

Thx

 

Is the idle problem engine hot, cold or both?

Is the engine a 4 or 6 cylinder?

Doubt if the timing is off as the engine idles OK for long time then drifts off.

Can not hear the misfire over the other noise.

You stated the engine is missing. The engine seems to pick up OK when the gas is added.

As the idle speed lowers the engine will start to shake badly. Determine if the RPM is lowering resulting in engine shake.

Might do an internet search on "cleaning IAC valve" plus you engine model. IAC valve controls idle speed.