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1995 Camry with no back up lights

  #1  
Old 10-19-2012, 04:16 PM
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Default 1995 Camry with no back up lights

Is the problem the Neutral Safety Switch? Will trans fluid leak out when I remove it? Can the NSS be opened and cleaned or must it be replaced?
Is a replacement NSS basically a plug and play unit or must it be adjusted. Does the car have to be in neutral or park when replacing.

Bulbs on each side were checked and are in working order. Thanks in advance for the advice!
 
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  #2  
Old 10-20-2012, 08:24 AM
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Suggest first checking the wiring harness in the trunk where it transitions from the chassis to the truck lid. This area is of the harness is prone to flexing with trunk lid usage resulting in damaged wiring.
 
  #3  
Old 10-20-2012, 03:49 PM
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Thanks for the advice. I always interested in the simple fix. I'll give it a go!
 
  #4  
Old 04-02-2014, 10:46 PM
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So did you find the problem? I have a 2000 Camry V6 and I'm having similar issues and can't get it fixed so far. Check engine light is on, the R lights up on dash when brake pedal is applied, brake lights go out on the truck lid when brakes are applied, reverse lights go out when brakes are applied. Also getting a shudder at about 20 mph when braking and rpm drops. I removed the park neutral switch and replaced it, nothing. Took it back to trans shop, had the seal and convertor replaced recently. The owner says its not the trans and he says shudder is from the wheels. But I have no shudder if I shift into neutral. I was told its electrical and the cost starts at $100 up to thousands of dollars. Took car home and will look for broken wires in the trunk. Does anyone have a link to the wires back there. Any suggestions? Anyone have this same issues? Thanks for the help.
 
  #5  
Old 04-03-2014, 12:21 PM
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You may have more then one problem.

Brake light wire runs to a combo tail/brake light out sensor unit which can go bad. Location on drivers side wall of trunk. This unit is what turns on the light out icon on dash.

The wiring harness going from the chassis to the trunk lid can become damaged from flexing, check this area for damaged wiring that can cross circuit electrical power.

Brake light system is not tied to dash R light except perhaps through damaged wiring or the failed light out sensor which might back feed.

Reverse lights are not tied into brake light system. Switch is part of Park/Neutral switch on trans shift lever.

Assuming no one rewired the car, look for damaged wiring or other wiring issues. Check out the light out sensor.

If check light on, best to download codes.

As to shudder. Shudder only when brakes applied.

What do you mean by RPM drops as in car is slowing down?

What happens if car slows down without braking, still shutter as RPM drops?

Any shake in the steering wheel or brake pedal when brake applied?
 
  #6  
Old 04-03-2014, 01:53 PM
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Ok thanks. I will check the wires and the light out sensor. Shudder happens when car is in drive and I'm applying brakes to come to a stop. If I shift into neutral then I get no shudder. If I stop without using the shudder is still there and the rpm's still drop. No shake in steering wheel or brake pedal, so I know it eliminates warped rotors.
 
  #7  
Old 04-03-2014, 01:55 PM
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Also all this happened at the same time. car was working fine and then all these issues came up. I removed the park neutral switch and it was filthy and I was not able to remove the 6 screws in the back to clean it, so I ordered a used one and nothing.
 
  #8  
Old 04-03-2014, 02:22 PM
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Also is there a way to test the brake light out sensor? I found it, thanks for telling me where to look I saw so used working ones on ebay for like $15, or should I get new ones from like advanced auto?
 
  #9  
Old 04-03-2014, 07:56 PM
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I've been reading the thread on earnhardt13nov's issues. For me the backup light noop problem I had was the wiring harness in the truck, driver's side. Easy fix. Earnhardt13nov mentioned a "shudder" problem and my '95 Camry is experiencing a similar problem.


When I stop at a corner or traffic light, car in gear, everything vibrates. If I throw it into neutral, it smooths right out. Also while traveling at 45-50 mph, if I step on the gas to accelerate, the car vibrates, struggles to increase to the desired mph (little to no power), and finally when it DOES get up to the desired speed, runs nice and smooth. If I attempt to "step on it" while doing anywhere from 55-70mph, it still vibrates/shudders with little to no power until it finally gets up to speed. Again, runs like a charm once up to speed.


I'm really leery about bringing this to yet another mechanic as the last guy that checked it out (mechanic #2) said, "the car runs fine". That was after mechanic #1 replaced the fuel filter, wires, plugs, and distributor cap with no change in symptoms. I brought it back and mechanic #1 said, "I road tested it and it runs fine". You know how a person knows how their car runs? Well I know my car and the car does NOT run fine! Perhaps the two problem are unrelated, maybe not.


Engine? Transmission? Appreciate any advise or suggestions.
 
  #10  
Old 04-04-2014, 09:37 AM
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For Feedatime. What engine model?

Try turning off the over drive.

What happens to RPM when stepping on gas. Stays the same, increases but no increase in speed, etc?

As to Earnhard
Do you get the same taillight and R light on problems with the cars lights are on?

On box, find Red and Green/Red wires. Press on brakes and determine if 12v is now at both wires.

For R light problem, unplug Park/Neutral switch and determine if this changes anything.

As to shutter. If car is allowed to coast to stop in gear, shuttle still happens? At what MPH does shutter start. RPM is some number, the drops to idle and in between shutter?
 

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