Hello:

This is my first post and first modern Camry. I'm no stranger to Toyota having had many Corollas and 80's Camry's in the past. I heard 2004 was a decent year and my wife's MB 300e has a rusty subframe. So I needed a vehicle and the used car market is very tight right now. I usually work on my own vehicles but am a newcomer to "modern" Toyotas. I had a 2000 Corolla and it drank oil due to the oil control "third ring issue". What do folks recommend regarding trans service, oil grades and a seemingly long travel brake pedal ? Recent calipers, rotors and pads have been replaced.

 

Engine type as in 4 or 6 cylinder?

The 4 cylinder also suffered from oil control issues apparently due to the oil return holes in the piston for that third ring plugging up with carbonized oil. ONLY use synthetic oil and change it every 5K or less. Oil weight wise the owners manual should have a chart of outside air temp versus weight. Take note that Toyota may recommend a higher weight for severe service such as sustained high speed driving.

Change the trans fluid sooner rather then later. If the trans still has a dipstick then do the fluid on a paper towel test and check for color. The internet has pictures of fluid color for conditions from good to bad. Trans fluid degrades with fluid temp as in heat. Stop and go driving and pulling a trailer generates more heat.

If you want the trans to last a long time change it at least every 50K miles. The best way is to disconnect the trans oil cooler hose going from the cooler to block at the block. Then drain and replace fluid with new. Start engine with hose disconnected and letting the trans oil pump push out the old fluid into a container. Let 2 quarts or less come out then stop engine and refill trans then repeat here adding as much fluid that came out. The fluid comes out slow so there is plenty of time to observe it coming out and shut off the engine before the trans pan runs out of it. When exiting fluid is clear top trans fluid off. Use the type of fluid as recommended by Toyota. An internet search will find aftermarket brands the are equivalent.

For the brakes assume you bled them using the standard procedure of doing the longest brake line first. Assume the brakes are all disk type and here make sure the caliper pistons are moving and not stuck. There should be an adjusting screw under the dash to take out the "slack." If you think the master cylinder was ever replaced, there is also a screw adjustment for the push rod the moves the cylinder piston which is supposed to set a zero clearance. If replaced perhaps this adjustment was not correct.

While your at it if the power steering is still hydraulic change the fluid in the reservoir. Here just remove and replace the fluid between drives until it is clear again. The reservoir cap will have the fluid type.

 

That's a great start! I was Service Mgr. at a BMW, and later Saab, Subaru store and others in the 80's -90's. I heard the 2004 was a decent year so I found a high mileage one for a reasonable price. Being on a fixed income these days I had to find something that was somewhat affordable . The engine is exceptionally smooth and shifts well. I never drove a 2004 before and was concerned about the pedal travel. I didn't do the brake work, so I plan on looking it over and checking the friction as well as hydraulic elements soon.. I never have heard of a pedal travel adjustment ...sounds like something you would encounter on a Citroen !

 

Pedal height (distance) when not pressed from asphalt sheet on carpet is 5.673 to 6.067 in.

Pedal free play. Stop engine and depress brake pedal several times until there is no more vacuum left in the booster. Push in pedal until the beginning of the resistance is felt. Measure the distance of free play. 0.04 – 0.24 in.

Pedal reserve distance. Parking brake off, engine running, depress pedal and measure the pedal reserve distance. Reserve distance from asphalt sheet is more the 2.48 in.