cleaned neg terminal on 2010 camry now too small
What would the best fix be - i used an old fashion battery cleaning tool that stripped away some of the lead off the negative battery terminal. Now the oem Toyota cable will not clamp down tight. So.............. the battery is still fine and i don't want to replace the cable end.................what can i do? lead tape? or something similar to increase the diameter of the now too small negative battery terminal. The Camry oem cable ends are rather unforgiving!
The battery lug is tapered, have you tried moving the clamp lower on the lug where the diameters are larger? Make sure the nut and bolt are closing the clamp fully.
Can wedge something between cable terminal and lug such as a nail or screw as a temp repair. Or try solid electrical wire that has been hammered flat and thin, then wedged between the terminal hole and battery lug.
The cable terminal end is bolted to the cable. It can be removed, cleaned modified or replaced. Modified as in removing more metal in bolt area to allow it to clamp more using perhaps a hacksaw.
A replacement OEM type costs $30-40 or try the older style can cheaper clamp type having a terminal nut, see link:
Super Start 08504 - Battery Terminal Nut | O'Reilly Auto Parts
Can wedge something between cable terminal and lug such as a nail or screw as a temp repair. Or try solid electrical wire that has been hammered flat and thin, then wedged between the terminal hole and battery lug.
The cable terminal end is bolted to the cable. It can be removed, cleaned modified or replaced. Modified as in removing more metal in bolt area to allow it to clamp more using perhaps a hacksaw.
A replacement OEM type costs $30-40 or try the older style can cheaper clamp type having a terminal nut, see link:
Super Start 08504 - Battery Terminal Nut | O'Reilly Auto Parts
thanks for jogging my brain and the good ideas - i will try to push the clamp down farther(i bet that does it - i didn't shave off much lead from the negative terminal) - if not will try to shave a bit from the clamping/bolt end of cable thereby allowing to clamp tighter.
On another note: i have the platinum warranty/ 0 deductible till 6/2016 and 20,000 miles left(till i hit 100,000) and i have the dreaded drivers side window sticking problem - sounds like it will break when lowering it - seems as if from other posts that the dealers can't find a fix? I believe i will take the time and have them try to fix it before winther?
I don't go to the dealer - I have a 2005 camry that has yet to need a repair other than an exhaust flex piece( bought on amazon and pd. garage $100 to put it on - too old to get under there and beat on rusted bolts
because of rust from short trips, and this 2010 camry has yet to see the shop.
Thanks again for the good ideas on the battery and anything on the driver window sticking in the up position would be greatly appreciaed!
On another note: i have the platinum warranty/ 0 deductible till 6/2016 and 20,000 miles left(till i hit 100,000) and i have the dreaded drivers side window sticking problem - sounds like it will break when lowering it - seems as if from other posts that the dealers can't find a fix? I believe i will take the time and have them try to fix it before winther?
I don't go to the dealer - I have a 2005 camry that has yet to need a repair other than an exhaust flex piece( bought on amazon and pd. garage $100 to put it on - too old to get under there and beat on rusted bolts
because of rust from short trips, and this 2010 camry has yet to see the shop.Thanks again for the good ideas on the battery and anything on the driver window sticking in the up position would be greatly appreciaed!
Toyota had a recall on a sticking window master switch for years 2007-09.
For the window, given the car is under warranty suggest taking it to the dealer. This gives them a chance to fix it and puts the problem in the cars records.
If you think the window is sticking in the track, apply a dry spray type lube to the track. Examples below:
Consider if the problem is the track or the motor/regulator. If the motor/regulator, lubing the track may just hide the problem until after the warranty expires.
For the window, given the car is under warranty suggest taking it to the dealer. This gives them a chance to fix it and puts the problem in the cars records.
If you think the window is sticking in the track, apply a dry spray type lube to the track. Examples below:
Consider if the problem is the track or the motor/regulator. If the motor/regulator, lubing the track may just hide the problem until after the warranty expires.
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AnthonyThrash
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Sep 30, 2011 10:34 AM




