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Having to replace a CV joint on 2009 Camry?

  #1  
Old 09-16-2011, 12:48 PM
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Default Having to replace a CV joint on 2009 Camry?

Hello,
I am new to these forums and I am seriously trying to determine whether or not I should be concerned about my 2009 Camry. I went in yesterday to have an oil change on the car only to be told by the mechanic that in addition to needing new tires, which I already knew, that I had bad struts in the front and needed a CV joint replaced. I am by no means a mechanic in any sense of the word, however, from what I have read on other sites it is uncommon for a Camry to need this type of work at this mileage. To clarify, since I left it out, my Camry has 58k miles on it. I am concerned that this might be the start of more major problems. This is the first Toyota I have owned and it was purchased brand new with appx 75 miles on it. It has had all the regular scheduled maintenance done on it according to the timetable set by the dealer as well. Any input would be greatly appreciated before I begin dumping money into it before it actually needs it. I would hate to find out after spending this amount of money that it is something extremely rare or that my mechanic may be trying to take advantage of my lack of knowledge.
 

Last edited by Jeffery Kintz; 09-16-2011 at 12:51 PM.
  #2  
Old 09-16-2011, 06:44 PM
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What kind of repair shop are you going to, independent, chain, dealer, etc?

Not stating the car does not need the repairs, however you make an excellent point about being taken advantage of, this does happen.

What reason did the mechanic state for needed new struts and CV joint?

What condition are the tires?

You should be able to find photos, drawings on the internet showing various conditions of tires and what is normal wear and not. Inspect the tires yourself and compare.

There was a test for tire wear done by inserting a penny into the tread and determining if you could fully see Abe's head. This would mean there was 1/8 inch or more of tread left, now it appears the minimum recommended is 3/16 inch.

The tread wear should be even across the tire, often the inner portion of the tire wears are greater rate.

Bad struts at 58K is more common now on Camry, they don't fail but start to leak. Still some leakage is acceptable, Toyota issued a service bulletin with drawings of what leakage is acceptable and not. If the mechanic states the struts are leaking it would depend on how much.

For the CV joint, unless the boot is torn or cut, or the joint is making noise it can be difficult to look at a joint and tell it is bad or good.

How does the car drive? Any vibration from the tires, suspension, etc. Make a few 90 and 180 turns at low speeds and listen for popping or clicking from the front tire areas of the car. This is a sign a CV joint is bad.

If you have the skills to change a tire you can raise the car up and feel the area of the strut where the strut rod enters the strut assy for oil Look for shinning rod in the center of the suspension spring. You want to feel where the disappears into the black colored strut body. There may be a rubber boot around the rod, just push it up and out of the way.

You can also look at the CV joint boots and determine if one is cut or torn. If so it needs to be replaced ASAP.

Toyota now sells a split boot kit that installs in a reasonable period of time and does not require taking the car apart. If the CV joint boot is damaged but the joint not making noise it might be worth it use the Toyota split boot.

However if the boot was damaged and not replaced soon enough the CV joint grease will fly out and dirt will be allowed in. Changing boot at this point may put off failure for a time but it will occur sooner or later.
 
  #3  
Old 09-17-2011, 11:55 PM
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The mechanics actual words were " the cv boot is torn and it looks like its leaking and you need to replace it at some point." I am not sure that he was aware that there is this split boot available. As far as the noise when you turn, I have heard it once or twice recently but not regularly and you have ot have the wheel completely craked as far as it will go to get this sound, and even then it isn't consitent. I had a honda that had bad cv joint and it leaked badly, and made clicking noises almost everytime the wheel was turned from the center position. I am frustrated by the fact that the car has been to the dealer for all it's maintenance until this time, and considering that they had it on a lift in order to rotate the tires I find it hard to believe that they would not have noticed this tear to the boot. As far as the wear on the tires, they are in need fo replacement without a doubt. The tires are not bald but I wouldn't want to take the car on a road trip till I replaced them. I am currently gathering up the finances to get this done. The struts seem to be a problem that I can see being possible. I have not checked to see if they are leaking but I do know that if I am traveling down the highway and step on the brakes fairly hard I can feel a vibration in the steering wheel that was not there when me and my wife got the car. I appreciate the response and the suggestions that you make are very helpful, I will have to go to the dealer to see if there is a way that they can replace the boot on the cv joint with this split boot, the only concern that I have is that they would rather replace the cv joint in its entirety because of the mark up on labor and parts that they can make. I will definitely do some more investigating before I undertake any major spending. If there are any other suggestions I welcome them.
 
  #4  
Old 09-18-2011, 12:56 PM
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If the CV joint is making the same type of noises the Honda made the joint is starting to fail.

How many miles/months between this dealer visit and the last visit? Perhaps the boot was OK before, they should have checked as it means potential $$ for repairs.

A tire life of 58K is OK, if original tires its great. If the tires have even wear on the tread all the way the tires circumference suspect the struts are still working OK. Bad suspension/struts typically result in a scalloped uneven wear pattern around the tire.

Not sure if the struts are the cause of the steering wheel shake when the brakes are applied. Typically this is from bad front rotors, they become warped or brake pad material adheres to the rotor unevenly (more common). The result is the steering wheel shakes when braking.

The fix is turning the rotors or replacing them. I prefer new rotors as turning them often only solves the problem for a short time (perhaps a year). Turning them also costs $$ which can be applied to the new rotors.

Have you received a detailed estimate from the dealer?

Any autorepair shop can install struts and may be cheaper then the dealer. Personally if short on cash would skip the struts for now. From the tire wear pattern it appears the are working OK.

Ditto for the brakes unless too bad, its not like you will cause more damage. The vibration may get worse though. If you are handy with tools changing the brake pads and rotors is a straight forward job and can save lots of money.

You can buy very good aftermarket rotors and pads (suggest a Toyota dealer for this) for $50 each plus another $50 for pads = about $150. The dealer will charge 2 times or more for the rotors. If buying Toyota parts shop for discount parts from dealers online.

For the damaged boot your options are replace the axle at dealer, at third party shop, ask the dealer about the possibility of installing the Toyota brand split boot (along with the cost for this). The dealer can clean the joint as best as possible and re-grease. The joint mostly likely will still fail (now making constant noise when turning like the Honda) but you may get another year or so out of the joint. This can give time to get other price quotes, etc.

You will need to compare the cost of the split boot and issue that this may just put off the axle replacement for a time vrs the cost of installing a new axle now.
 
  #5  
Old 06-06-2013, 11:38 AM
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Hi,

was wondering if you could advise on the issue below:

While doing brakes / rotors / etc - I noticed the passenger side axle had a .25 inch worth of play in it - along the length - when trying to push it in and out reaching in from the wheel well.
The driver side doesn't move at all when you try to push it in or if you try to pull it out.

Does this mean I should change the passenger side parts - if so which could you suggest - should I take any other action ?

( wish I would have seen the post earlier - this all started because the wheel shimmied when braking at 65 - 70 mph - perhaps I could have cleaned the rotors or something - they had a schmear on the passenger inside surface - = save $100.00 ++ - ughh )
BTW the pads had plenty of meat on them -

Whats the reason for the angled 'tip' of the brakepad - I noticed the old ones made full contact - vs the new ones have an area the pads 'work into' as they wear - the new pad is angled along the front and rear edge which in effect gives less actual pad surface when using a new pad ..... why ??? ...

Hey thanks for answering in advance
 
  #6  
Old 06-06-2013, 07:59 PM
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Passenger side axle has a different design.

The drivers side plugs into the differential carrier via a snap ring and is held firm.

The passengers side has no snap ring but is held in place by a carrier bearing held in a housing by a snap ring and bolt. Make sure the bearing is still held firmly in place. Typically when a CV joint fails it starts to make a clicking noise when making 90 or 180 degree turns at slow speeds.

Are you stating the you replaced the rotor and it made not difference?

The pads may have the angle to reduce brake pad noise when the brakes are applied.
 
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