I found myself in a situ where I had to find my daughter a car quickly. Scored a 93 camry 4cyl for $1000. I've pursued the thread and don't see this exact issue, so if I missed it I'm sorry.

Car runs great good battery and new looking alternator. Have driven about 500 miles the last few days and no real problems. I did all the basic stuff, oil filters, plugs, even the sway bar links and bearings on the front. I've noticed twice now. She drove to the gas station close to the house, less than a mile away. car started and ran fine up there, when she went to leave wouldn't crank turn over anything. I got there about 30 mins later and car started right up. No problems since then. This morning I drove it to same gas station car started ran fine. Ran for about 4 mins shut the car off got gas. Wouldn't start for about 30 minutes. Finally started, drove home didn't kill it, she drove 30 miles no problem. Was there an hour when she went to leave fired right up.

When it wouldn't start, the ding from key in with open door was there, all dash lights were lit up like they were supposed to be just nothing on start. No crank no click like a dead battery sound makes. Just nothing.Like there was no power at the starter. I didn't have enough time to really look at everything, but I'm thinking the solenoid on the starter. Thoughts?

I'm pretty mechanical but have zero experience on Camrys.

 

The +12v wiring from the battery has many circuits. One is a large diameter cable running directly to the starter solenoid. Another are the wiring to the cars electrical systems. The result being the engine may not turn over but various lights, locks, etc. work OK.

Odds are the starter solenoid contacts are worn and making intermediate contact. The solenoid is a large electrical switch having two metal electrical contacts that are driving together by a solenoid when +12v power is applied to the solenoid.

When the contacts touch power flows from the battery to the starter motor. Over time the contacts burn from arcing and fail to make electrical contact. These contacts are known to fail.

They can be replaced with a kit from a dealer or found online with the starter still bolted to the engine. There is rear plate on the solenoid that unbolts allowing the contacts, etc to slide out. You might start here.

Note the starter and solenoid is two different items bolted together having a large diameter but very short length electrical cable running from the solenoid to the starter motor for +12v power. The solenoid has a large diameter, long electrical cable bolted to it that runs to the +12v battery terminal.

The problem can be narrowed down to confirm it is the starter solenoid by doing the following:

The next time the engine does not start, hit the solenoid on the top metal case with a hammer. Blunt the blow by placing a section of wood between the hammer and solenoid. This may encourage the contacts to make contact. Try this also when turning the ign key to start.

If nothing use a jumper cable to momentarily make contact between the +12v battery terminal and large electrical terminal on the solenoid where the large dia, long electrical cable bolts on. This will bypass the battery cable to the solenoid. Then try to start the engine.

If nothing, move the end of the jumper cable to momentarily make contact with the electrical terminal connected to the large dia, short electrical cable that goes to the starter motor from the solenoid. This will bypass the solenoid. If the starter motor is OK, the engine will crank over.

You can check the starter electrical circuit from the ign switch by checking for +12v at the SMALL electrical terminal on the solenoid when the ign key is turned to start.

If solenoid is the problem, you have the time to obtain parts AND the starter is the original Toyota part, (perhaps Denso brand). Suggest fixing this part rather then getting a "rebuilt unit" which can be of dubious quality.

 

That was basically what my thought process was. I was just really thrown off by it starting right up first thing but if only allowing it to run for a few mins why it won't start back up. But if it's driven for awhile and then kill it for 5 mins and start it it fores right up. That's the confusing part to me

 

It could be the engine heat is expanding a part, or once a part is free to move it works for a time. Solenoid problems can be intermediate.

 

Good advice form Joey.
I also know that starters will that are failing will not start when they get warm.
I had a car that I had to keep running until I was done running around because the starter was affected by the heat.
Something is definitely heat related here.

 

Going to try to get out and check out stuff today, but also had another thought. Reverse lights don't work or at least don't light up, and neither does the gear selection in the cluster. On the gear shirt itself it lights, up but in the cluster doesn't. Could maybe be the NSS?

 

The reverse light switch is in incorporated transmissions park/neutral/gear indicator switch. The switch is located on the trans behind the gear selector lever. Follow the gear shift cable to the lever and switch. Perhaps there is a wiring issue.

All lights are powered by the Gauge fuse via the Red/Blue wire to the switch.

Yes it could. Given this switch incorporates the park/neutral that prevents the starter from engaging unless the shifter is in park/neutral the switch may be causing the starter problems.

To find out check for +12V at the SMALL wire going to the starter solenoid when the ign key is turned to start.

When the starter is not engaging, to bypass the ign and park/neutral switches plus starter relay apply +12v to this small terminal on the solenoid. The current draw is small thus can use a small wire connected to +12V battery terminal to accomplish this task.

If no +12V when the ign key is turned to start there is a problem.

Ditto if when the starter will not engage and bypassing the ign key system by jumping +12V to the small wire allows the starter to then engage.