1999 Brake light on/off especially when cold
Thread Starter
|
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 1
1999 Brake light on/off especially when cold
I think I just need new brakes, there is some sqeaking when I brake, but my brake light started to go on when I first start the car this past winter when the car was cold. It would go off after a minute or so. Its still doing it and staying on longer. Need to go get brakes checked this week=end. Usually take to the dealer, but want to go to mechanic somewhere in Orlando. Do they all use aftermarket pads? I had a volvo a while back and it sqeaked whenever I braked when I had a mechanic (not dealer) replace the pads. How do I get estimates from dealer vs private mechanic when I don't know what all my car needs as far as brakes? I have 150,000 miles on it. I bought it new in 99. 
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,178
From: PTW
Squeaking disk brakes are not uncommon. This noise tends to be worse when first braking in the morning, etc. Toyota and other car makers go to great lengths to prevent this noise by using anti-squeal shims, tabs, grease, etc.
A private mechanic or non-Toyota shop may or may not reinstall all these this parts or the brake pads they use may not fit up to the these parts as the factory pads did. This is one reason some car owners only use Toyota pads, they cost more but by design tend to squeal less and the tabs, shims, etc. fit up with them.
Most front brake pads have a metal spring tab riveted to the metal backing plate that will start to ride on the brake rotor when the pad material thickness is approaching being exhausted. This will make a loud squeal when the brakes are applied.
If the pads are allowed to operate until the brake pad material is worn off (exhausted) the pad backing plate will now ride on the rotor creating a metal to metal contact and a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. This is not good as the rotor will be damaged.
The brake light does not provide any info on the thickness/condition of the brake pads or shoes. It comes on if the brake fluid is low or the emergency brake is on. There is a float switch on the the brake fluid reservoir cap that triggers the light.
The fluid will become lower as the brake pads and or shoes wear because the piston that moves them shifts further outward from the hydraulic cylinder to force the pad or shoe against the rotor or drum. The space behind the piston fills with brake fluid from the reservoir lowering the level.
The brake fluid reservoir has high and low fluid marks on the side.
Would assume a non-Toyota shop would use non-Toyota parts as these would be cheaper and more readily available.
You should be able to get ball park quotes from a dealer or a private mechanic. One think to watch is for a low ball quote. Once the car is taken apart shops tend to find other items that need replacing such as struts, etc.
If the car has never had a brake job would assume it needs new front brake pads, maybe the rotors turned (better to replace them).
If rear disks, then pads. If the rear has drums brakes then brake shoes and the drums turned (it is OK to turn the drums).
Toyota front pads cost around $55. Having the front rotors reground on the car at a shop $100, rear shoes or pads $30-50, turn drums $10 each. Plus labor.
New front rotors would be $50-100 each aftermarket, much more at the dealer. You don't need to use Toyota rotors for a good brake job.
These are the basics, have seen quotes for a brake job go into the $500's. Shops always try to add things on, etc.
Suggest staying away from chains shops, the dealer may be expensive but you might be able to get a more firm quote from them. Try smaller independent shops for quotes.
Turning or replacement of the rotors is based on thickness, they wear with usage. Or if there is problem with warpage such as the brake pedal pulses when pressed and or the steering wheel shakes when the brakes are applied.
If too thin they need to be replaced, if warped they are often turned, this being trued up.
Might ask about having the front rotors replaced instead of turned (if turning is required). Turned rotors tend to warp faster, the rotors are easy enough to replace thus labor to replace them should be nil. I never have rotors turned as warpage always occurs within a year.
A private mechanic or non-Toyota shop may or may not reinstall all these this parts or the brake pads they use may not fit up to the these parts as the factory pads did. This is one reason some car owners only use Toyota pads, they cost more but by design tend to squeal less and the tabs, shims, etc. fit up with them.
Most front brake pads have a metal spring tab riveted to the metal backing plate that will start to ride on the brake rotor when the pad material thickness is approaching being exhausted. This will make a loud squeal when the brakes are applied.
If the pads are allowed to operate until the brake pad material is worn off (exhausted) the pad backing plate will now ride on the rotor creating a metal to metal contact and a grinding noise when the brakes are applied. This is not good as the rotor will be damaged.
The brake light does not provide any info on the thickness/condition of the brake pads or shoes. It comes on if the brake fluid is low or the emergency brake is on. There is a float switch on the the brake fluid reservoir cap that triggers the light.
The fluid will become lower as the brake pads and or shoes wear because the piston that moves them shifts further outward from the hydraulic cylinder to force the pad or shoe against the rotor or drum. The space behind the piston fills with brake fluid from the reservoir lowering the level.
The brake fluid reservoir has high and low fluid marks on the side.
Would assume a non-Toyota shop would use non-Toyota parts as these would be cheaper and more readily available.
You should be able to get ball park quotes from a dealer or a private mechanic. One think to watch is for a low ball quote. Once the car is taken apart shops tend to find other items that need replacing such as struts, etc.
If the car has never had a brake job would assume it needs new front brake pads, maybe the rotors turned (better to replace them).
If rear disks, then pads. If the rear has drums brakes then brake shoes and the drums turned (it is OK to turn the drums).
Toyota front pads cost around $55. Having the front rotors reground on the car at a shop $100, rear shoes or pads $30-50, turn drums $10 each. Plus labor.
New front rotors would be $50-100 each aftermarket, much more at the dealer. You don't need to use Toyota rotors for a good brake job.
These are the basics, have seen quotes for a brake job go into the $500's. Shops always try to add things on, etc.
Suggest staying away from chains shops, the dealer may be expensive but you might be able to get a more firm quote from them. Try smaller independent shops for quotes.
Turning or replacement of the rotors is based on thickness, they wear with usage. Or if there is problem with warpage such as the brake pedal pulses when pressed and or the steering wheel shakes when the brakes are applied.
If too thin they need to be replaced, if warped they are often turned, this being trued up.
Might ask about having the front rotors replaced instead of turned (if turning is required). Turned rotors tend to warp faster, the rotors are easy enough to replace thus labor to replace them should be nil. I never have rotors turned as warpage always occurs within a year.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
