How to tighten parking brake on 03 camry
#1
06-24-2015, 07:42 AM
How to tighten parking brake on 03 camry
Hello,
I recently had my Camry on an EU-test as we have in Norway and got several "errors". Among these was that my parking brake was too loose, it had to many clicks before it got into effect I guess. A foot parking brake isn't very normal in Norway so there isn´t many people that have that much knowledge about this, except a repair shop. Of course going to a shop like this might be expensive, so I was wondering if somebody here could help me with this problem.. Thanks!
Maybe somebody could make me a guide using this picture?:
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f8021ba12.gif
I recently had my Camry on an EU-test as we have in Norway and got several "errors". Among these was that my parking brake was too loose, it had to many clicks before it got into effect I guess. A foot parking brake isn't very normal in Norway so there isn´t many people that have that much knowledge about this, except a repair shop. Of course going to a shop like this might be expensive, so I was wondering if somebody here could help me with this problem.. Thanks!
Maybe somebody could make me a guide using this picture?:
http://repairguide.autozone.com/znet...3f8021ba12.gif
#2
06-24-2015, 10:08 AM
When the E-brake is adjusted properly. As the pedal is slowly depressed the correct number of clicks is 3 to 6 with a specified application force of 31 kgf (68.3 lbf). Of course you can push the pedal further down (more clicks) by applying more force.
The E-brake system is operated by cables which pull the brake shoes toward the inside of the brake drum. There is one cable per brake, the two cables converge and connect to one cable that runs to the brake pedal. When the foot brake is pushed the E-brake mechanism show in your photo pulls the cable.
In your photo the cable is called the "front parking brake and conduct". When Inside the car, the cable moves inside a conduct to prevent contact with other surfaces.
In the photo, follow the cable from its identification arrow, up around a bracket which bends the cable then to the end of the cable. Once the cable makes this bend, the conduct is no longer present. The end of the cable connects to a threaded rod which goes through a hole in a bracket. The rod is pulled and retained by a couple of nuts screwed onto the rod. The nuts are the brake cable tension adjusting nuts.
The nuts and rod are what adjusts the tension in the brake cable and thus adjust the E-brake itself. The inner nut adjusts the tension, the outer nut is a called lock nut that when tightened against the inner nut prevents its movement
To adjust the E-brake:
Depress the pedal 3 clicks to allow access to the two nuts and loosen both.
Return the pedal to its original position.
Rotate the inner nut (assume CW) to take more slack out of the cable. How much you will need rotate is determined by trial and error but start with perhaps 1/2 turn.
Depress the brake pedal and count the number of clicks until the specified application force is reached (you can guess on this force or use a bathroom scale). If too many clicks release the pedal and rotate the adjusting nut again in the same direction. If not enough clicks turn the nut the opposite direction.
Keep repeating the adjusting and test process until the correct number of clicks is obtained.
Once obtained push the pedal down 3 clicks and tighten the outer nut against the inner nut to prevent the inner nut from moving.
Release brake and repeat the test to determine if the number of clicks is still the same.
Drive car to determine of the rear E-brake shoes are dragging, as in the shoes are too close to the drums.
Make sure the E-brake light comes on when the brake pedal is depressed.
The E-brake system is operated by cables which pull the brake shoes toward the inside of the brake drum. There is one cable per brake, the two cables converge and connect to one cable that runs to the brake pedal. When the foot brake is pushed the E-brake mechanism show in your photo pulls the cable.
In your photo the cable is called the "front parking brake and conduct". When Inside the car, the cable moves inside a conduct to prevent contact with other surfaces.
In the photo, follow the cable from its identification arrow, up around a bracket which bends the cable then to the end of the cable. Once the cable makes this bend, the conduct is no longer present. The end of the cable connects to a threaded rod which goes through a hole in a bracket. The rod is pulled and retained by a couple of nuts screwed onto the rod. The nuts are the brake cable tension adjusting nuts.
The nuts and rod are what adjusts the tension in the brake cable and thus adjust the E-brake itself. The inner nut adjusts the tension, the outer nut is a called lock nut that when tightened against the inner nut prevents its movement
To adjust the E-brake:
Depress the pedal 3 clicks to allow access to the two nuts and loosen both.
Return the pedal to its original position.
Rotate the inner nut (assume CW) to take more slack out of the cable. How much you will need rotate is determined by trial and error but start with perhaps 1/2 turn.
Depress the brake pedal and count the number of clicks until the specified application force is reached (you can guess on this force or use a bathroom scale). If too many clicks release the pedal and rotate the adjusting nut again in the same direction. If not enough clicks turn the nut the opposite direction.
Keep repeating the adjusting and test process until the correct number of clicks is obtained.
Once obtained push the pedal down 3 clicks and tighten the outer nut against the inner nut to prevent the inner nut from moving.
Release brake and repeat the test to determine if the number of clicks is still the same.
Drive car to determine of the rear E-brake shoes are dragging, as in the shoes are too close to the drums.
Make sure the E-brake light comes on when the brake pedal is depressed.
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