I picked up a 2001 Camry Gallery Ed. (V6/Automatic) at a pretty reasonable price. Reasonable because it has a leaking seal. I was hoping it would be one of the axle seals but it appears to be the seal behind the torque converter. So it looks like I need to take the transmission out to fix it. I found the removal instructions DirtyHands provided and have looked at a couple of online videos that go through the process pretty fast. I will be doing this in my driveway so no lifts to help out. Just curious if anyone might have some words of wisdom, tricks/tips, things to look out for, before I jump in. Any thoughts or helps would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

 

When reinstalling the torque converter onto the trans output shaft make sure the tang on the trans oil pump engages the groove on the torque converter. Failure to do so will result in the torque converter being slightly extended forward in the bell housing. Then when the trans housing is bolted to the engine the torque converter will pushed into the trans oil pump and cause damage.

Make sure the torque converter remains full of trans fluid as it does not self prime.

Clean torque converter mounting bolts with solvent then use a thread locker.

Prior to disassembly might mark the orientation of the converter on the flex plate and converter on the trans output shaft. Then assy in the same locations.

Since the trans is off might replace the crank seal. If doing so remove and reinstall the flex plate and any spacers in the same location as removed. Use thread locker. Check flex plate for cracks.

Be careful when removing and installing the half shafts into the trans housing as the differential seal can be nicked then leak. Make sure the shaft splines are fully engaged into the differential carrier before your RAM the shaft in.

You may need to use brute force to pop the drivers side half shaft out of the trans carrier/housing as its held in with a snap ring. Here a pry bar and abrupt force on the inner CV joint is required.

The passengers side half shaft has a carrier bearing that may be frozen in its carrier housing. The bearing might be held in by a snap ring and set screw so check for either or both. If all retaining items are removed the shaft/bearing should slid out easily.

 

Thank you very much for your input, toyomoho. I think my biggest fear is nicking seals. From the looks of the transmission, it has marks on it like it might be a rebuilt. The person I bought it from didn't have it very long and the person he bought it from didn't have it for long either. I have a feeling that one of them nicked the seal when they were putting the transmission in and then decided they didn't want to go through the process again so they sold it cheap.

 

Any suggestions where I can bolt/chain the inner side of the V6 engine to the engine support bar? Videos seem to be for a v4. I cant find a spot on the V6 that doesn't seem weak.
Thanks.

 

Is there a lift hook on the back side of the intake manifold and one in the front? Perhaps just threaded holes but no hooks?

Some use the 4 bolts that bolt the upper and lower intake together.

Or just use traps.

Engine weight is something like 300 lbs as has aluminum block/heads.

 

The passenger side half shaft had both a snap ring and a bolt. I have removed the bolt and the snap ring is out of its slot hanging on the shaft. However, the shaft won't come out. I tried to use a pry bar to get it to move but it won't. Manual says that is all that needs to be removed. if the shaft is frozen in the carrier bearing is there some way to free it?

 

A frozen bearing is common. Try heating the carrier. Some have removed the carrier then worked on the issue at a desk.

 

Thanks for your reply. I sprayed some PB Blaster around the carrier bearing and am letting it sit. I will see if that works tomorrow and then try the heat.. I see some video/tutorials don't even take the passenger side shaft out. But both of them are on transmissions for four cylinder cars. Would that be a possibility here?

Do you have a recommended way to replace the boots on the half shafts? The outer boot on the driver side was completely torn and spewing grease all over the control arm.

 

Don't know.

The passengers side axle is held in place with the carrier bearing locking devices and NOT a circlip snap ring at the end of the splined axle shaft that locks into the differential carrier (as is the case with the drivers side). Suppose one could move the trans away from the engine allowing the passenger axle to slide out of the differential.

If going this route be extra careful not to damage or nick the differential axle seal when removing or installing the passenger axle (ditto for the drivers side). One can nick the seal and not know it, then have a leak at said seal but only know this once things are put back together.

As far as boots, there is something called a split boot. The boot is slit sideways to allow fitting over the CV joint without taking the axle apart. The split ends of the boot are then glued together with a provided adhesive. Results here are a mixed bag as the boot may split during operation. Toyota at one time offered a Toyota brand split boot system which was very good. Might call a dealer and determine if they still do and if there is one for your vehicle.

As recall the outer axle shafts splined ends have a circlip the lock it into the outer CV joint. Not sure it is even possible to pull this shaft out of the outer CV joint.

However recall the the other end of the this axle can be removed from the inner CV joint. Thus to replace the outer boot would need to remove the inner boot and then remove the axle from the inner CV joint. This is a good deal of work.

My own experience is if the outer boot is split, leaking grease, etc then best to replace the axle. The reason is the grease is gone, dirt and debris have been allowed to enter the CV joint and it may be just a matter of time before the outer CV joint fails.

If you do replace the boot try to get all the old grease and debris out and replace with new grease (a CV joint specific grease). Clean all the surfaces of grease where the boot will be contacting the axle in the area where the boot band will be installed. You want a tight seal between the boot and axle at the band area, not one with grease between the boot and axle.

Normally in replacing a boot one would measure the static axle over all length (end to end) prior to removing the boots. Then when installing the boots try to obtain the same length. Since your boot is totally split just take note it is possible to change the length of the axle when installing the boot. This because the boot being an according in design it can force the axle/inner CV joint to slide closer together or farther apart when static. You want to end up with the same over all length of the old axle.

If getting a replacement axle try to get a new one! Many "rebuilt" axes are not really rebuilt and fail quickly or right out of the box.

 

Is there any way the splines on the inboard side of the passenger half axle could bind inside the transmission? It seems like I am missing something. The subframe is out. The transmission is ready to come out but I don't think I have enough clearance with the splines of the passenger side shaft still in the transmission. I have been unable to get the shaft to move more than about a 1/8"( at least that is what the dust cover shows). The carrier bearing appears to be right on the edge of the crevice where the snap ring goes.. Not being able to get the carrier bearing to move in the mount, I have removed the four bolts holding the mount to the engine and I still can't get the axle to budge. I have hammered on the mount outward parallel to the shaft but nothing moves. I can't find anything other than the four bolts holding the mount to the engine. Are there more than just the four bolts holding the mount on the engine? There is a bracket that contains the hole (and seal I assume) where the inboard end enters the transmission. It has four fasteners, one on each corner. Looking at videos and at the manual, they don't show needing to remove this bracket. Does that need to be taken off? I am at a loss. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.