Great job!

Suggest applying a little never seize with the bearing re-installation.

 

Prior to disassembly might mark the orientation of the converter on the flex plate and converter on the trans output shaft. Then assy in the same locations.

How critical is marking the position of the torque converter with the shaft? I marked the converter/plate orientation but missed the converter/shaft instruction.

 

Other than the crank bolts taken off to replace the rear main seal, are there any other bolts I should definitely use thread locker on when putting things back together?

 

Put locker on the torque converter bolts.

Sometimes there is a converter bolt that is colored say green. If so install this bolt first, then the others.

There is no orientation specified for converter/shaft.

Make sure the converter tube output shaft engages the trans as in tang and groove are orientated. This to prevent the converter from sticking out in the bell housing.

And if fluid was somehow drained out of the converter add it back as the converter does not self prime.

 

I made a big mistake by not noting where the outer cv boot for the driver's side axle was mounted. The opening of the boot I got is way to big for #1, is just a little bigger than #2. #2 doesn't have a lip and looks like it will just slide off. Looking at pictures of the axles on Rock Auto, I don't see all the tiering and they look like the boot is mounted on #3 but the boot opening would have to be stretched quite a bit. i though I would ask before I make the wrong decision. Any ideas?

 

Another question on installing the seals. Should I use any kind of lube, like atf, or something else to assist in installing the seals? Or just make sure the seal slots are clean and install the seals dry?

 

Toyota lists an overall length for the driver's side axle when the boots are installed but boot neither contracted or stretched. The info listed here is for a 1999 V-6 but might be the same. 586.0 ± 2.0 mm (23.071 ± 0.079 in.)

The overall length is from the end of the shaft that installs into the transmission to outboard edge of the step up diameter of splined shaft that engages the axle hub. When moving inboard from the outboard end of the axle shaft, the splined section of the shaft ends but the shaft diameter stays about the same. The shaft diameter then increases to form a surfaces that mates to the axle hub dust cover. Measure to the outboard edge of this step up diameter.

If you know where the small diameter of the boot attaches use this as a reference point. When the boot is installed, the boot should neither be contracted or stretched to any extent.

When installing lip seals, no lube is required on the outboard circumference. Lube the lip seal that will ride on the rotating shaft.

Note where the old seal is installed. If the rotating shaft is scored, etc it is possible to move the seal slightly in or out to have the rubber lip ride on undamaged surfaces.

If you want specific year info Toyota has a website where for $20 one can download all the service data wanted for 2 days.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F

 

I guess my concern is having the wrong boot. It seems to fall naturally on the 2nd tier but as I said no pictures for replacement axles show any tiers. RockAuto shows replacement axles (SurTrak and Cardone) at about 25 11/16" compressed.

 

Did you buy the boot from Rockauto and if so which one?

Rockauto lists some boot diameters with their selections to compare with CV joint diameter.. The boot should slide over the axle joint mount surface and be retained by any lip on said joint surface until the band is installed. Grease between the boot and axle will cause it to pull off easily if not clamped.

In your photo would assume the boot would clamp at the No 1 location. Its the furthest out and has a retaining lip which 2 and 3 do not.

Toyota lists a few parts for the car.

https://parts.olathetoyota.com/auto-...nd-joints-scat

Do you still have the remains of the old boot to compare dimensions?

 

Thanks so much for your time in guiding me through this, toyomoho. I made another rookie mistake here. For some reason, I had it in my head from just after pulling the axle, that the boot that was ripped was the outer boot when I could observe it wasn't when I pulled it. Maybe it was the grease on the control arm that stuck in my mind, who knows. I had a Homer Simpson moment last night when I was measuring the shaft and realizing I was measuring from the end of the threaded shaft to the lip on the splined shaft..Doh! Rock Auto doesn't list a front inner boot other than the Doleman UniFit. I can pickup the Unifit at Autozone or OReillys locally cheaper. However, if I put clamps at #2 and #1 or cut the boot I have at #1, (after the first bevel in the boot), it lines up perfectly with no tension either way when the axle is midway between compressed and fully elongated. With all the hassle, I should have just paid the $50 and bought a new axle with a lifetime warranty. May still do that...