Good afternoon folks of the Camry forums.

I am teaching a person how to drive, and we had an issue involving totaling a newer accord. (Somehow a few body panels, airbags, and seatbelt charges run over 12 grand even with a perfectly driving car with no alignment issues, no radiator damage etc.)

So now we are using an 01 Camry with a quarter-million miles on it but normally running great.

That is until yesterday it developed an exhaust leak. The exhaust is in pretty rough shape what with the salt they use on the roads here in the winter and 20 years of loving use.

The leak appears to be where the pipe meets the muffler. The problem is that I don't think the joint between the rear and middle sections of the exhaust is savable even if I cut the bolts, as the flanges appear to be "congealing" into an iron oxide supplement.

The joint between the middle section (with the resonator) and front section (with the cat) looks like it might be able to be worked with, even though its a little rough.

My questions good folks:

1: Do you think the flanges on the front exhaust section looks OK and it will be OK to replace just the middle and rear sections.

2: Will I be able to do the repair myself with very limited car maintenance experience, some jack stands in the driveway, some penetrating oil, a socket wrench, and a dremel in case I have to cut the bolts?

3: There appears to be a sensor of some kind in the middle exhaust segment. Should I replace this, or can I just unscrew it and screw it back into the new pipe?

Thanks again folks!

Edit: Its a 2.2l inline in case that changes anything.

 

Leaking at the section of pipe that is mated to the muffler?

!) The flanges and remaining exhaust pipe look OK but can only go by the photos. Try GENTLE tapping the exhaust pipe with say the BLUNT end of chisel or other solid blunt metal object to determine if the pipe feels and sounds solid or soft.

2) Guessing given the amount of rust, the bolts will break or nut flats round over if attempting to remove them. If so, the nut and one section of the bolt will come off. The head of the bolt is most likely is spot welded to the flange. As such if you can not get the nut off start with cutting the bolt head off. If the bolt breaks cut the bolt head welds off and knock out the remaining section of bolt.

A dermal tool and abrasive disk should be able to handle this job.

Use a standard bolt/nut combination to reconnect the flange using the existing flange holes. Obviously use new gaskets.

3) The sensor is for the emissions system. It's purpose is to monitor the condition of the emissions converter (the large round tube) on the exhaust system ahead of it. If replacing the middle pipe remove and reinstall the sensor. Note the sensor can be frozen to the pipe and need some effort to remove.

4) Don't know your experience with getting under cars but do be safe. In addition to jack stands might position whatever else you can find under the car such as spare tire, wood blocks, etc. If the jack stand kicks out whatever else you have under the car will keep if from crushing you.


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Thank you very much, toyomoho. This is all excellent information.

I went ahead and ordered a muffler and resonator and will work on trying to remove the old pipe when I get a chance this weekend. I appreciate the info about cutting the bolt at the head side as I was inclined to try the opposite. Also appreciate the safety tips and will see what I can do about getting some backup support under there as well as the info about the exhaust sensor.

Yes, the leak is where the pipe is mated into the muffler. It appears to be almost completely detached and the muffler can wiggle around independently of the pipe.

 

Good luck!

 

I had something similar on my 95 Camry that I replaced. The connection and muffler rusted looked the same. I also had the muffler outside skin peeling.

Just don't use any torches since near gas tank and when working on it make sure the gas tank is near E. I used a dremel to do quick cuts on bolts or use saw.