I checked door tag like Joey P suggested, and it says U241E. It seems there are two common models. One is stamped U241E, and the second has U241E in raised letters. I guess I'll figure out which one I have tomorrow.

Thanks again for all the help!!

 

ok thank you .....thats your box U241E, confirmed

is there any other information you require ?

this is just extra information for you to add your repair manual

this is the 25 page pdf for the U241E auto box

http://www.all-trans.by/assets/site/...and%20u241.pdf

went to japanese saying no link found etc ..thats annoying . .. reposted ...wonder what happened there

20 page pdf .. U241E,

http://share.qclt.com/%E4%B8%B0%E7%9...nit/029013.pdf

 

Dirty Hands,

I'm having problems getting the Rav 4 Repair Manual to open. Could you repost the link?

The page is in Japanese, and I tried using Google Translate, but couldn't get it to work.

I appreciate all the help. I'm planning to start working on car this afternoon. I don't have reliable internet in my garage, and I'm hoping to print out pages.

Thanks Again!!

 

http://highlanderclub.ru/files/manua...2f/x040001.pdf

 

Thanks for link. Is anyone using intelligent tester 2. It seems that I need access to perform the tests listed in manual.

 

dont over think the work .. you know the fault code and solenoid to replace

all you want to do is replace a solenoid .. clear the code . pull the EFI fuse or with radio security code in hand (undo battery terminals ).

all should be good ...back on the road

US $319.59 / piece
intelligent tester 2.

 

Hello,

I removed the Transmission Oil Pan, and tested the Solenoid. Unfortunately it's inconclusive. The solenoid clicks when voltage is applied, but I noticed when I test the ohms it starts at 10 ohms, but if I leave the Multi-Meter connected for a few minutes it get decreasing lower. I left Meter attached for about 3 minutes and was down to 7.7 ohms. 10Ohms is minimum according to manual.

The tranny fluid smelled a little burnt, and there was a little chunk of metal on the magnet. There was only one piece it was approx 5mm x 7mm x 2 mm?

Some important things I discovered. I needed to remove Transmission mount located behind drivers front wheel to get access to the oil pan bolts on that side. I didn't actually completely remove it. I just unbolted the transmission mount, and engine mount located in middle of radiator. I jacked up the engine 3 or 4 inches so I could get access with a small socket and ratchet.

Another important note: even after draining the transmission there is a lot of fluid behind the filter, and wearing your favorite trainers when doing this work is a bad idea. When I removed the filter, about a cup of fluid splashed all over my left shoe.

I'm not sure if I should replace the solenoid, or buy a salvage transmission. replacing the solenoid is certainly less work than swapping the transmission.

I did take pictures, and will post some when my phone battery charges.

I wouldn't have made it this far, on this project, without the help from this forum.

Thanks!!!

 

will wait for your pictures and that chunk of metal

go with original fault / fix .. fit that solenoid ,new filter and oil , test drive
then decide ..if that second box is required