I am attempting to replace the oil pump seal on my 97 camry 4 banger.
The nut wont seem to come off. Is it backward threads? If you could direct me to a post or have any advice please let me know.

Thanks

 

i read a few write ups - doesnt mention anything unusual about the bolt or nut directions ( righty tighty lefty loosey )

 

Remove pump body from pump case. Hold driver rotor in vice (protect from damage). Unloosen nut (right hand thread).

 

ok, i know this may be stupid but i will ask anyway. I have another engine with only 130,000 on it, but it threw a rod. Could I take the oil pump body and both drive rotors out of this motor and put them in my new used engine?

 

you could

i read in one of your posts a motor you had threw a rod ..I would be cautious fitting that motors oil pump into anything

I dont have the clearence specs/tolerances for oil pumps .

you should use feeler guages a straight edge and a micrometer as part of your diagnosis

to tell you if its good to go ....or no longer usable

the alloy housings of pump case and body can grove or wear

for all your trouble

how much is a new oil pump ? found it $50 -$80 free shipping 92 -01 Toyota Camry 2.2L 5SFE Engine Oil Pump

 

The issue with replacing with the other pump is that seal has 130K miles on it. Most new pumps today are sold with the oil pump case which boost the price.

The seals are under $10.

If you don't have a vice try a strap wrench around the pulley or gear. Harbor Freight sells plastic handled ones.

The oil pump nut torque is 18 ft-lbs.

When installing the driven rotor oil pump gear, make sure the mark on one side of the gear face, faces inward toward the oil pump body.

Also apply a thin!!! layer of grease, or use oil on both sides of the gear faces and outside diameters. The grease/oil will seal any air gaps to help the pump to prime when the engine starts.

 

Someone forgot to tell the last guy that the oil pump nut only took 18 lbs.
After stripping the nut I had to use vice grips and a hammer to get it loose. Needless to say I will need a new nut.

Anyway. Ok pump off. Will I need some kind of sealer besides rubber seal to put the housing back togther? It seems like it had some brown stuff like indian head on it before.

I saw a mark on the pump impeller, how does that line up with the inside? It seems to go on only one way.

As always thanks.

 

The large gear has a mark that should face the engine.

Its a standard tread metric nut, perhaps called a range nut. This is a nut having a built in washer. The dealer may stock one or hardware stores something that might work.

The preformed o'ring between the pump body and pump case should be all that is required. Make sure you change this o'ring. The dealer should stock this, plus some on-line parts dealers. Don't know about local auto parts stores.

The brown stuff may be Indian Head but there is no requirement to use it. This must have been applied by the last mechanic. Make sure the o'ring is fully installed in the groove so not pinched when installed.

Since a sealant was used, might check the pump groove, and pump body and pump case surfaces for damage the might cause leaks which might be why it was used. The o-ring should do the sealing, not any applied sealant.

Apply some grease to the inside of the pump drive shaft lip seal before installing the shaft.

 

clevername about a nut
just a thought

now you know whats going on with these pumps

is it easy for you to go for the pump nut on the busted engine ?

 

Yes, I will take the nut off the busted engine.

I think I found the key to timing on the crank sprocket. On the teeth for the crank trigger there is a small indention that matches up with a line on the oil pump housing. This must be the timing mark. It matches up on my blown engine. I can't imgaine there would not be one.

Has anyone else seen this?