2002 Auto
#1
2002 Auto
Hi,
I've been nursing this old Camry for a few years but it's never let me down, until now.
Got in this morning, put the key in, and the alarm horn started tooting! At the same time, the door locks started clicking, on and off, over and over. When I took the key out, the tooting continued for a few seconds then stopped.
So I did some research and found that the repairs needed were well beyond my skills and knowledge. But I need the car tomorrow, so I thought I'd be clever and just remove the horn fuse, (after disconnecting the battery of course), until I could get to the garage. Looked it up and thought I had found it, but when I removed it, the same tooting happened when I tried to start. So I removed other likely fuses, but nothing worked..
I did find that it was only the rear right door lock that was clicking on and off. So I'm guessing the problem has something to do with that particular actuator (if that's the right term).
So my question is, What can I do to disconnect that door from the system, so that I can start the car and drive it to be fixed, without the horn blaring all the way? If I can stop the horn tooting, I can take it to the garage and let somebody look at it who knows what he's doing....
Thanks for any tips.
.
I've been nursing this old Camry for a few years but it's never let me down, until now.
Got in this morning, put the key in, and the alarm horn started tooting! At the same time, the door locks started clicking, on and off, over and over. When I took the key out, the tooting continued for a few seconds then stopped.
So I did some research and found that the repairs needed were well beyond my skills and knowledge. But I need the car tomorrow, so I thought I'd be clever and just remove the horn fuse, (after disconnecting the battery of course), until I could get to the garage. Looked it up and thought I had found it, but when I removed it, the same tooting happened when I tried to start. So I removed other likely fuses, but nothing worked..
I did find that it was only the rear right door lock that was clicking on and off. So I'm guessing the problem has something to do with that particular actuator (if that's the right term).
So my question is, What can I do to disconnect that door from the system, so that I can start the car and drive it to be fixed, without the horn blaring all the way? If I can stop the horn tooting, I can take it to the garage and let somebody look at it who knows what he's doing....
Thanks for any tips.
.
Last edited by Jimmy_C; 10-06-2022 at 02:08 AM.
#2
Is this the original Toyota alarm or an aftermarket?
What repairs are needed?
Check the door switch for proper operation. The switch tells the alarm if the door is closed.
The Toyota system uses a computer called a body computer to operate the locks. If you found the computer AND the right wire you could cut it. However the wiring colors can be the same between wires making this challenging.
You could remove the door panel and unplug the actuator.
Is the only issue the horn? Does the engine start, etc? If so get some hearing protection then go find the horn. Disconnect or cut one wire to the horn. The 12v power to the horn might be white in color and the horn body grounded to chassis to complete the electrical circuit.
There are no fuses for the theft/alarm computer. It is wired to the same computer that operates the locks.
What repairs are needed?
Check the door switch for proper operation. The switch tells the alarm if the door is closed.
The Toyota system uses a computer called a body computer to operate the locks. If you found the computer AND the right wire you could cut it. However the wiring colors can be the same between wires making this challenging.
You could remove the door panel and unplug the actuator.
Is the only issue the horn? Does the engine start, etc? If so get some hearing protection then go find the horn. Disconnect or cut one wire to the horn. The 12v power to the horn might be white in color and the horn body grounded to chassis to complete the electrical circuit.
There are no fuses for the theft/alarm computer. It is wired to the same computer that operates the locks.
#3
Yes it's the original alarm, Joey. By "repairs" I meant whatever has to be done to fix it professionally.
I'm not keen on cutting wires to the body computer, but I can access the horn itself, so I might do what you suggest and cut its wire.
I don't know if this is the only issue, because when the horn started up the second I put the key in the ignition I immediately pulled it out. Didn't want to drive the neighbours nuts.
Thanks for the tips, Joey. Appreciate it.
I'm not keen on cutting wires to the body computer, but I can access the horn itself, so I might do what you suggest and cut its wire.
I don't know if this is the only issue, because when the horn started up the second I put the key in the ignition I immediately pulled it out. Didn't want to drive the neighbours nuts.
Thanks for the tips, Joey. Appreciate it.
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