1999 Oil Leak Source
#11
10-14-2023, 11:43 PM
So turns out the silicon for gasket thing on belt cover didn't work out so well, there is a big gap of clearance enough to even see the timing belt. I took a look at the car a few days after and can see it probably would have been better to not use anything at all rather than use the silicon. So ordered the correct gasket and going to redo that part. I wanted to know what your opinion was on how I torqued the crankshaft in earlier post.
#12
10-15-2023, 10:42 AM
Many have used an impact tool to tighten the bolt or just guessed at how much to torque the bolt without issue. Guessing tends to under torque larger dia bolts.
From an engineering standpoint, unless the impact tool is torque limited having say a standard 90 psi air supply one does not really know what the applied torque is to the bolt. Issues can be snapping the bolt, stretching the threads and bolt. Torquing bolts is process that needs to be done as such. Meaning its best to torque the bolt to the spec as outlined by the manufacturer which is typically in one motion from start to finish. Most of the torque applied to fasteners is used to over come friction. If one comes back and checks the torque with a tool unless the bolt rotates it only means the bolt is torqued at or above the spec.
A concern would be if grossly over torqued might cause the bolt to stretch, damage threads and over time corrosion, rust, etc build up might cause the bolt to be challenging to remove.
As to using a chain strap on the pulley again many have used this method with out issue. Suspect many don't even know about bolting the crank pulley holder tool to the face of the pulley.
As to what to do?
I suggest if it isn't broke don't fix it.
If you are going to be removing the lower cover and pulley to install the seal then suggest using a bolt on holder and torque wrench.. I made my own holder using a flat narrow plate made of aluminum (easy to cut) with holes/slots that bolts can pass through to bolt on to the crank pulley face. The bolts are standard metric. The plate is long enough that when the crank turns it binds up with the chassis or such to stop rotation. Then I just torque the bolt in one pass. Unless the manual states to do so don't apply oil or anti-seize material as this lubes the threads to reduce friction and increases the applied torque.
PS. There are some LARGE spindle bolts I loosing and tighten with an impact gun as its a real pain or impossible to hold the spindle with any tool. I know the torque setting and understand the impact gun will apply less torque thus the bolts will be under torqued as per spec but who cares. To date after years of removing and replacing the bolts they have not come undone nor has a bolt or spindle been damaged. Here being a case of having a bolt spec which may be challenging to achieve in the real world. However if bolt failure would result in major problems or hurting someone I would find a way to torque to spec.
From an engineering standpoint, unless the impact tool is torque limited having say a standard 90 psi air supply one does not really know what the applied torque is to the bolt. Issues can be snapping the bolt, stretching the threads and bolt. Torquing bolts is process that needs to be done as such. Meaning its best to torque the bolt to the spec as outlined by the manufacturer which is typically in one motion from start to finish. Most of the torque applied to fasteners is used to over come friction. If one comes back and checks the torque with a tool unless the bolt rotates it only means the bolt is torqued at or above the spec.
A concern would be if grossly over torqued might cause the bolt to stretch, damage threads and over time corrosion, rust, etc build up might cause the bolt to be challenging to remove.
As to using a chain strap on the pulley again many have used this method with out issue. Suspect many don't even know about bolting the crank pulley holder tool to the face of the pulley.
As to what to do?
I suggest if it isn't broke don't fix it.
If you are going to be removing the lower cover and pulley to install the seal then suggest using a bolt on holder and torque wrench.. I made my own holder using a flat narrow plate made of aluminum (easy to cut) with holes/slots that bolts can pass through to bolt on to the crank pulley face. The bolts are standard metric. The plate is long enough that when the crank turns it binds up with the chassis or such to stop rotation. Then I just torque the bolt in one pass. Unless the manual states to do so don't apply oil or anti-seize material as this lubes the threads to reduce friction and increases the applied torque.
PS. There are some LARGE spindle bolts I loosing and tighten with an impact gun as its a real pain or impossible to hold the spindle with any tool. I know the torque setting and understand the impact gun will apply less torque thus the bolts will be under torqued as per spec but who cares. To date after years of removing and replacing the bolts they have not come undone nor has a bolt or spindle been damaged. Here being a case of having a bolt spec which may be challenging to achieve in the real world. However if bolt failure would result in major problems or hurting someone I would find a way to torque to spec.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
