Ok, a little background on the car, its a 97 Camry LE, 2.2 liter. The car has 180k on the motor, but the motor is strong, no complaints, no check engine light, litterally the car will fall apart around the running motor, but you all know this. Anyways, I bought the car which had a lot of replacement parts (timing belt, water pump, power steering pump and lines, and a lifter). I was told 6 months ago when i bought the car that the valve cover gasket wasn't replaced as one wasnt in stock at the time, and that there may be a small oil leak, if there is to bring it back and he will replace the gasket. I had no issues til last saturday, oil pressure light came on 500 miles after an oil change, oil filter is solid no leaks, at first glance the drain plug seems good. But there is pooled oil on the top of the intake manifold plenums and it clearly looks to be coming from the valve cover. I replaced the valve cover gasket, the old was brittle and broke up in my hand as i removed it, but since replacing it, oil is still dissappearing. Almost 2 quarts in 2 days, what can i do to stop this leak? Or any ideas where else it could be?

 

Over the 2 days the 2 quarts disappeared how many hours was the engine on? Hours not miles driven.

If this much oil is disappearing check oil before driving and if required stop driving and recheck! The oil light coming on means the oil pressure was below 5 psi. You don't want to damage the engine by running it out of oil.

Did replacing the valve cover gasket eliminate the pooled oil?

Suggest you place cardboard under the engine (car on level ground) and start the engine and let idle for time. It is possible the leak occurs only when the engine is running. The cardboard will help with seeing the leak and identify the leak area.

Places to look for leakage are:

The oil pump seal can leak when the engine is running. The result in a slow steady drip causing a very LARGE oil loss in a very short time as this oil is under pressure. This oil would be coming out the lower side of the cover facing the firewall. Just under where the side bulge is on the cover.

The cam or crank shaft seals. This oil would be coming out the bottom of the timing belt cover.

The engine rear crankshaft seal. Look under the engine where the trans bolts to it for signs of leakage. This oil will flow into the trans bell housing then out the bottom. A leaking seal would be a slower leak then the pump seal.

Behind the oil filter is the oil cooler which bolts to the engine. Look for leaks in the area the cooler mounts to the engine. The cooler has two oil pipes and rubber hoses connected to it, check these for leaks. This oil is under pressure when engine is running.

On rare occasion the oil pressure switch can leak. The location is on the upper block (below head), on drivers side, facing radiator. Obviously this oil is under pressure, engine running.

If the engine has a distributor, check for leakage where the distributor mounts to the head. The distributor drive shaft can leak but if this much would fill the distributor cap up with oil.

It is possible the leak only occurs when the engine is running and is slow but steady. As such when the engine is off and sitting over night, there may not be a large puddle under it to find.

 

I have narrowed the leak down to the back side of valve cover, seems to be coming from the timing belt side in the corner near the firewall.. Brand new gasket from fel-pro and torqued to spec.. why would it leak? at first i tightened by hand without a torque wrench, but re torqued them today and the leak slowed, but def still there.. idk what to do.. Also i thoroughly cleaned the mating surfa e of the head and gasket. Heres a question, as a force of habit i lubed the gasket, very lightly, similar to an oil filter gasket but not as heavy. Could that be the issue??

 

That's a lot of oil coming from this area.

If you have a torque wrench, torque spark plug tube nuts to 33 ft-lbf. Work back and forth between nuts until the torque settles (nut stops rotating).

If still leaking remove and clean all surfaces. Use a form in place gasket material in addition to a new gasket. Then torque nuts as described about and let the sealant cure the full time specified on the tube before starting engine. The from time to time in the future re-torgue the nuts.

 

I agree, its a lot of oil, i torqued everything to spec, but its definitely leaking from the corner near then cam on the timing belt side. I get paid today, so im looking into an rtv or something to help seal it.. Since i retorqued it to spec the leak has slowed, but still a decent leak. Now my check engine light came on, dont know if its at all related, but ill scan it after work as drivabilty seems normal.

 

Suggest Permatex Ultra Black. Available at auto parts stores and auto section of department stores.

Permatex 82180 | Liquid Gasketing & Silicone Sealants


When applying to gasket and other surfaces put more in the corner area of the cam bearing mount (where gasket makes a sharp turn).

Clean all surfaces. Apply to valve cover and cylinder head with extra material where gasket makes a sharp turn - corners. Apply a thin film on the gasket.

Then assy. As stated, make sure to keep torquing until the torque stabilizes. The gasket and sealant will squeeze out and compress resulting in the torque value decreasing. Thus keep torquing until it stabilizes.

If possible wait 24 hours before driving. If not wait over night.