its a 1992 es300 3vzfe engine
when leaving work yesterday the car picked up a miss in one cylinder but still ran good enough i felt to get me home the 25 freeway mile drive, as i was getting ready to exit the highway i shut off the cruisecontrol (from 75 mph) at the exact same time the engine shut down, i may as well had turned off the ignition switch? the car didnt stutter backfire or anything just dead.
after getting it home i checked for spark with a timing light on the #1 cylinder against the timing mark while cranking and it was perfect?
also checked for visable spark on the #2 plug and that looked a very bright blue? then tried spraying starting fluid in intake while cranking, nothing.
loosened the banjo bolt on the fuel rail and seems to be plenty of pressure spraying only while cranking, pulled one spark plug after cranking and it was wet with gas?
no restrictions visable in air intake?
on the way home there was no check engine light, after getting it home i used a paper clip to read codes, #12- engine revolution signal missing, #24- intake air temp fault, #41- throttle position circuit fault, #52- knock sensor fault.
i checked every fuse i could find under the hood and inside, all good.
could use any and all help.... please


****************turns out that under the distributer rotor bug the voltage ate through the bug housing and started to ground out on the distributer***************
the odd part was that i had good spark on #1 and #2 plugs, when i removed #2,4,6 all at once and cranked engine i noticed that the spark diminished on #4 and was gone by #6 (maybe from draining the condenser) ?
this prompted me to start checking the resistance on the igniter, coil, and pick ups thats when i removed the bug and seen where it had arched out the bottom side of the bug and went to ground...
i can only assume that at highway speed it made enough voltage and at higher RPM was able to over come the partial ground until i shut off the cruise and dropped in RPM ?
i want to thank everyone who posted replys to my thread as it really helped me to think outside the box and get this solved much much sooner than i would have on my own.

 

I suggest you do a google search on each of the code numbers along the word Toyota.

This will give you an idea of what the codes mean.

Code 12 means no signals from the pickup coils inside the distributor are getting to the computer. Check for loose wire connectors, broken wires, etc, at the distributor and along the wiring harness. Or one of the coils could be bad.

If you have an ohm meter you can check resistance of the distributor coils.

With the distributor harness plug terminal facing you and terminals lined up vertically with the notches on the plug facing your left hand. The terminals from top to bottom are NE, G1, G2, G. G is ground and the common connection for the other terminals.

G1-G 125-190 ohm
G2-G Ditto
NE-G 155-240 ohm

Remove the distributor cap and any cover over the pickups coils.

Use a feeler gauge to check the gap between the two pickup coils and their corresponding notched cam. Gap should be 0.008- 0.016 inch

If the above tests are not in spec replace the distributor.

Code 24. Open or short in air temp circuit for 0.5 seconds or more.

Unplug the MAF sensor. With the plug terminals horizontal, facing you and the two notches on the wide side of the plug facing down. Check the ohm resistance between the far right terminal and the 3rd one over from the right.

Ohm reading should something like 2-3K ohms at 68F. 0.4-0.7K at 140F. Approx 0.2K ohms at 212F. Use a hair dryer to heat the sensor.

If the resistance is infinity. much higher then listed or 0 ohms the sensor is bad. If Ok again the wiring may be bad not allowing the signal to reach the computer.

If the distributor and temp sensor are OK then then start looking at the wiring. Wiring that is connected to or bundles with the TPS and knock sensor.