07 v6
#1
09-05-2021, 04:54 PM
07 v6
Camry with189,000 wife’s car super nice. Well kept.. did a front ignition coil last year super easy no problems. Till now we get new codes. Replace #5 ignition coil. And then also all new spark plugs. Car runs worse than before. Idles horrible. Push button but I did try resetting idle. I hope the worse case scenario that something happened to us on that one hard to turn spark plugs. Maybe the ecu got pulled on top much? I did this job taking wiper motor out not intake… please help! My trucks broke down at the moment we need our car back!!!
#2
09-06-2021, 12:41 AM
What were the specific codes?
Do you have access to a code reader?
Clarify what runs poor means. Engine idles poor, has no power, misses, etc?
Why were the coil and plugs changed? Because of the codes?
You pulled on the ECU harness?
Did you disconnect the battery at any time during the repairs?
Have you checked for disconnected vacuum hoses or hose leak? Disconnected wiring harness?
Do you have access to a code reader?
Clarify what runs poor means. Engine idles poor, has no power, misses, etc?
Why were the coil and plugs changed? Because of the codes?
You pulled on the ECU harness?
Did you disconnect the battery at any time during the repairs?
Have you checked for disconnected vacuum hoses or hose leak? Disconnected wiring harness?
#3
09-06-2021, 02:00 AM
What were the specific codes? At the auto parts store I scanned codes and it told me that #5 ignition coil was bad causing misfire
Do you have access to a code reader? I don’t have one and I don’t want to take car back to the place I scanned it first because it’s running that bad. Father in laws reader basically said it wasn’t compatible? Said all coils were bad and 17 things total I think. Wasn’t understand it.
Clarify what runs poor means. Engine idles poor, has no power, misses, etc? It starts, sputtering and then idles sputtering like a misfire like it wants to die.
Why were the coil and plugs changed? Because of the codes? Changed all of plugs because were already in the back at the hard spot. Also because 189,000 miles figured be good time. Plugs didn’t all look that bad they were good dense replacements. I used auto lite iridium and checked the gap after doing them all and it being worse.
You pulled on the ECU harness? I did not remove the intake so I did undo the harness in spots as well as other stuff but I checked it all and nothing seems broke or apart.
Did you disconnect the battery at any time during the repairs? Wife’s car had problems with aftermarket stereo the big fuse for subwoofer came apart after father in law tugged on it and the whole fuse placement wire box was fried so yes unhooked battery and took that off.
Have you checked for disconnected vacuum hoses or hose leak? Disconnected wiring harness? I did. All hoses and wires/harness seem to be okay.
so after turning off motors after first finishing we could hear like a sizzle/hiss right around the front ignition coils. After checking and doing a little more inspection. Swapping coils just in front, looking at more plugs again. #5 plug was very hard to get out was very careful plug didn’t look like I stripped it. I put it back in, coil didn’t want to go on all the way, plug needed to go further which father in law did and he said I think that the 2 right back ignition coils were kinda hard to get all the way down and I told him it should kinda click before needing to put bolt in. I may want to remove the intake and check the one thing plugged in under it. I didn’t get crazy with removing those coils at all was very careful but still. I read this car could possibly be like one of the certain vin types that just suck and have all sorts of problems and ecu abnormalities? I have to do these repairs myself we do not have the money to be able to afford taking it into Toyota. Thanks for the reply I hope that I can get this figured out with your experience. So I guess planning on check o2 sensor in front, 2 sensors, injectors, that other pump motor looking deal at right side of motor above o2 sensor. The sizzle sound is just continuing now sounds like it’s coming from right there somewhere or even injectors? Next to intake? If that’s what they are? Didn’t mess with throttle body or anything at all mass air flow sensor wasn’t touched I don’t think. Father in law said he replaced a T and couple hoses few years ago when him and race car grandpa changed water pump, job was successful never had overheating problem since. Also is the two fans in front supposed to be come on right when car is started? Or just when getting hot hot? Thanks again look forward to hearing from you.
Do you have access to a code reader? I don’t have one and I don’t want to take car back to the place I scanned it first because it’s running that bad. Father in laws reader basically said it wasn’t compatible? Said all coils were bad and 17 things total I think. Wasn’t understand it.
Clarify what runs poor means. Engine idles poor, has no power, misses, etc? It starts, sputtering and then idles sputtering like a misfire like it wants to die.
Why were the coil and plugs changed? Because of the codes? Changed all of plugs because were already in the back at the hard spot. Also because 189,000 miles figured be good time. Plugs didn’t all look that bad they were good dense replacements. I used auto lite iridium and checked the gap after doing them all and it being worse.
You pulled on the ECU harness? I did not remove the intake so I did undo the harness in spots as well as other stuff but I checked it all and nothing seems broke or apart.
Did you disconnect the battery at any time during the repairs? Wife’s car had problems with aftermarket stereo the big fuse for subwoofer came apart after father in law tugged on it and the whole fuse placement wire box was fried so yes unhooked battery and took that off.
Have you checked for disconnected vacuum hoses or hose leak? Disconnected wiring harness? I did. All hoses and wires/harness seem to be okay.
so after turning off motors after first finishing we could hear like a sizzle/hiss right around the front ignition coils. After checking and doing a little more inspection. Swapping coils just in front, looking at more plugs again. #5 plug was very hard to get out was very careful plug didn’t look like I stripped it. I put it back in, coil didn’t want to go on all the way, plug needed to go further which father in law did and he said I think that the 2 right back ignition coils were kinda hard to get all the way down and I told him it should kinda click before needing to put bolt in. I may want to remove the intake and check the one thing plugged in under it. I didn’t get crazy with removing those coils at all was very careful but still. I read this car could possibly be like one of the certain vin types that just suck and have all sorts of problems and ecu abnormalities? I have to do these repairs myself we do not have the money to be able to afford taking it into Toyota. Thanks for the reply I hope that I can get this figured out with your experience. So I guess planning on check o2 sensor in front, 2 sensors, injectors, that other pump motor looking deal at right side of motor above o2 sensor. The sizzle sound is just continuing now sounds like it’s coming from right there somewhere or even injectors? Next to intake? If that’s what they are? Didn’t mess with throttle body or anything at all mass air flow sensor wasn’t touched I don’t think. Father in law said he replaced a T and couple hoses few years ago when him and race car grandpa changed water pump, job was successful never had overheating problem since. Also is the two fans in front supposed to be come on right when car is started? Or just when getting hot hot? Thanks again look forward to hearing from you.
#5
09-06-2021, 02:51 PM
The engine is NOT known for being a trouble maker. It supposed to be very good.Are you stating the code reader is now able to read the ODBII codes? A code that refers to a specific cylinder can has a list if reasons it was set. One reason can be the coil but there can be other reasons. If you had the specific code and get the list of possibilities.
Make sure the code reader is not set up to also read say GM trouble codes in addition to ODBII and its trying to read GM codes. Each car maker also has their own code system.
Did you power wash the engine before working on it? Water can get into the harness connections and cause problems. Just pulling on the harness isn't going to harm things. Check harness connections. Any chance you disconnected an injector electrical connection?
You could try to disconnect the electrical connection harness plug to the coils one at a time. Determine if the engine now runs the same or worse. If a plug isn’t firing right already then disconnecting its coil may not make things much worse. If it is firing OK then disconnecting a good firing plug will result in worst condition.
Disconnecting the battery will cause the engine computer to need to relearn the idle position for the throttle plate which is electric motor controlled. Each time the battery is disconnected the idle speed will need to be relearned.
Get a section of hose to use a stethoscope and try to run down the area of the hiss/sizzle. Is this a sizzle/hiss as in some electrical component is now frying or does it sound like perhaps an air leak?
I suggest you not try to shotgun the repair process at this time as in just changing parts.
The radiator fans should come on with the A/C compressor is running as the magnetic clutch is engaged and the compressor shaft is turning. They also should come on if the coolant temps goes after something like 199F. For normal driving the fans should be off. If one gets into stop and go traffic or idles the engine long enough the fans should start to cycle on and off to move air through the radiator.
See private message.
Make sure the code reader is not set up to also read say GM trouble codes in addition to ODBII and its trying to read GM codes. Each car maker also has their own code system.
Did you power wash the engine before working on it? Water can get into the harness connections and cause problems. Just pulling on the harness isn't going to harm things. Check harness connections. Any chance you disconnected an injector electrical connection?
You could try to disconnect the electrical connection harness plug to the coils one at a time. Determine if the engine now runs the same or worse. If a plug isn’t firing right already then disconnecting its coil may not make things much worse. If it is firing OK then disconnecting a good firing plug will result in worst condition.
Disconnecting the battery will cause the engine computer to need to relearn the idle position for the throttle plate which is electric motor controlled. Each time the battery is disconnected the idle speed will need to be relearned.
Get a section of hose to use a stethoscope and try to run down the area of the hiss/sizzle. Is this a sizzle/hiss as in some electrical component is now frying or does it sound like perhaps an air leak?
I suggest you not try to shotgun the repair process at this time as in just changing parts.
The radiator fans should come on with the A/C compressor is running as the magnetic clutch is engaged and the compressor shaft is turning. They also should come on if the coolant temps goes after something like 199F. For normal driving the fans should be off. If one gets into stop and go traffic or idles the engine long enough the fans should start to cycle on and off to move air through the radiator.
See private message.
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