Bought a used 2000 Camry for my son, and the passenger front window was stated 'not working' from previous owner. All other windows worked find from master switch and individual switches. I wanted to fix the problem, attempted to make window go up/down via passenger switch, slowly went down and stopped 3 inches from top, wouldn't go back up from either driver or passenger switch. Motor seemed to clunk, assumed motor so purchased a new part from 1a auto. Replaced motor and it would go up with good speed initially from OEM switch. Purchased a new passenger side switch, and same symptom, only would go up. I've lubed the track, etc. didn't think that was the issue - and issue persisted. I've searched the forum and a ton on the web, and I just can't seem to put this one together.

I put 12v direct to the new 1A motor, and am able to raise and lower the window (when switching polarity on the battery) without issues, so I suspect a wiring issue.

Current Status:
New 1A auto motor, OEM switch (have a new switch to test with if needed). Nothing works currently (up/down) on either driver/passenger side switch. I did check fuse 22 in interior, 10 amp, looked fine and didn't think that was the problem since I have power at the switch.

Have power at passenger individual switch (blue wire) found with test light when ignition is on. Wiring harness into switch has the following wires (Red, red/blue, green, blue, green/white). If I follow where the wires route to the motor, I have 2 wires: red and green. With a test light connected to ground, Green wire is lit when switch is activated up, and red wire is lit when switch is activated down.

After the connection to the motor, I have a red/blue wire that go to motor. Both are lit when either up or down is activated on the switch on either red/blue wire (that doesn't seem right to me)....but not sure what to do or what my test should be. I assume I have a wiring problem somewhere, but not sure how to continue. I have a multi-meter/test light for testing. There are no obvious signs of a wire break/frayed, etc. that I can see.

Looking for a wiring diagram or some help diagnosing, I'm not great with electrical issues, but I'm stubborn and willing to continue to work on it!

Really appreciate any help.

 

If the window can be moved up/down by directly powering the motor the issue appears to be wiring.

The passenger window wiring is not always obvious. The wiring does not use chassis ground for an electrical circuit return.

Each drivers console passenger switch wiring runs to that windows individual switch then to the motor (might be red and blue wires). This system has two wires where the switch changes polarity in the wires to change motor direction.

The passenger window switches work differently. Each individual door window switch has a separate 12V+ power wire running to it (might be orange). Depending on what direction a passenger switch is moved it sends this +12v to one or the other wire of the motor. The switch when moved also connects the return wire of the motor to one or the other two wires used by the drivers switch. Check for +12v power at the orange wire when ign key is on.

A frequent issue issue is the wiring between the drivers door and frame can break due to flexing with door usage.

There should be past posts at this site explaining the above in more detail.

 

Thanks, appreciate your response. I found your other comments on similar issues after submitting my post - so thank you for the details.

Kid had to take his car for a camp this week, so yesterday I put the passenger door back together. Following your advice, I only had time briefly to take a look at the wires on the driver side. I removed the master switch from drivers side door wiring looked fine plugged it back in, and was going to look at the wires going through the door to the frame. I popped off the rubber boot out of the keeper from both sides door/frame, but the rubber protective boot just kept going. I thought once I got passed the little keeper it would expose the wires but that's not what I saw. Do I need to actually cut that boot to see the wires and then patch it back afterword? Anyway, due to timing I just slide the rubber boot back to the original spot. I wasn't able to actually get view of the wires from either side.

After I put it back together, attempted one last time the passenger side window before accepting defeat - and it worked, lol. Both from driver side and passenger side switch. Obviously, I'm sure the issue will come back and is likely within that driver door wiring....wish I would've found the wire, but at least it's going up/down now. I assume it'll come back, but for now I'm going to call it a win....lol. Thanks for your help.

 

Use an ohm meter to check for continuity in the wiring.

Search the internet which has photos of the boot to give you a heads up. It has a grommet at each end to attach to the sheet metal.

See private message.