Hello,
Newbie here planning on buying a “new” car and leaning towards a fifth generation (’02-’06) Camry but also considering a BMW 330 and a Mazda 3 (hatch). I plan on doing as much of the upkeep I can, am pretty good around cars and have maintained a ’94 Mustang GT for the past 10 with no problems (including timing chain, clutch, suspension, exhaust, brakes, ignition, etc.). I don’t plan on souping this up, other than possibly suspension and a decent sound system (and a good tune up, of course).

Although I haven’t compared all the combinations of engines and transmissions, ideally I’d get a manual I-4 with sunroof. With that said, I’m not opposed to the automatic if it’s more reliable than the manual transmission, or equally fuel efficient. I don’t care for the trunk lid wing and chrome interior trim. The only model I’ve driven was an ’04 XLE V6 (auto) and despite liking it, found the suspension way too soft.

Questions:

Q1. From my preliminary research the engine choices are either a 2.4L I-4 and a 3.0L V6. Is either more reliable, or trouble-free, than the other?

Q2. In terms of reliability, is one transmission more reliable or durable than the other? I prefer the manual but realize some cars’ automatics are lower maintenance than their manual transmissions. Also, were there really no manual V6s?

Q3. I’d like a stiffer suspension. I’ll drive an SE as soon as I can locate one near me, but in your opinion, is there a big difference between its suspension and the others? Is it pretty easy to find either new or used springs and dampers to stiffen up, say, an XLE’s suspension?

Q4. What’s the interval for replacing the timing belt and what’s a realistic cost for having this done (either in dollars or labor time and parts)? I assume it’s an interference engine and interval is 65-80K mi.

Q5. What should I look out for, in terms of possible “issues” with this generation car with an estimated 65K mi on the clock? I’ve already found mention of possible problems with the intermediate steering shaft and windshield clips, both apparently very easy fixes.

TIA for allowing me to post.

MG70

** BEFORE anyone replies "use the search function", I will be doing so after posting this...thanks**

 

The 3.0L has been around for at least 14 years, the faults are known.

The 2.4L began around 2002 and appears to be an OK engine. This engine has a timing chain, variable valve timing and introduced to Camry a computer controlled throttle. The gas pedal has an actuator that sends signals to the computer and in turn the motor on the throttle. The computer determines throttle position and response; as a result a few drivers have needed to adjust to this. The throttle motor has failed at times leaving the driver in a slow speed limp home mode.

There have been a few postings on the head bolts threads in the aluminum block stripping resulting in blown head gaskets and or oil leaks. Toyota ‘s fix is a new block. Some owners have had success with installing steel threaded inserts to repair the block. There is no TSB on this problem, yet.

Both 4 and 6 cylinder transmissions have had shifting problems such as flare and hard shafting. The main issue appears to be software problem in the computer that in most cases was solved with a memory re-flash. A few trans needed rebuilding though.

In some of these newer trans Toyota uses a proprietary WS synthetic trans fluid that is supposed to last for 100K miles. Inspection is done based on color compared to a color chart. Have never read any reports of the realities of going 100K on the same trans fluid and cannot comment.

Trans using this fluid do not have a dipstick and are very sensitive to fluid level. This makes changing the fluid yourself more difficult.

If the trans uses Dexron III or T-IV change it every 30K.

The key to long trans life is fresh and clean fluid.

There should have been a manual trans offered.

The SE was a sport edition; the Camry tends to still be a family car and not known for a great suspension. There are a lot of aftermarket springs and shocks available.

The industry recommendation for belt change on the 1MZ-FE is 90K miles. Toyota states to inspect the belt for need of replacement although it can very difficult to tell a good belt from one that is ready to fail. A Toyota dealer would charge $300-500.

The 1MZ-FE is a non-interference engine.

Assuming this car had any problems popping up repaired under warranty and normal maintenance it should fine for another 60-80K. All Toyota age though and would need repairs as the miles added up.

Again the key is clean and fresh fluids, trains, engine, power steering and brake. Parts like axles, engine mounts, etc are much cheaper then repairing the components above.

Do not know how this generation of Camry will hold up over time. Do wonder if Toyota has reduced some of the integrity and quality of the Camry (and perhaps the full Toyota line) in their rush to dominate the world market. This has shown up in less then stellar reviews in what should normally be a 5 star rating for their products.

 

Thanks for the excellent feedback, really!

So I looked up 1MZ-FE and that refers to the 2.9L V6. Would you happen to know if the I-4 engine is also non-interference (my concern is the drive chain breaking and ruining something if not replaced/having been replaced within the interval) and what the recommended mileage interval would be for replacing the chain on the 4 cyl.? Same $300-$500 charge for this?

Also, would you happen to know what transmissions used the Dextron III, either by model, engine type, or date of assembly? My main interest for the time being is still a manual 4 cyl., ’02-’06.

Having recently test driven a new Corolla and Honda Civic, I agree with you 100% on the cheapening of the Toyota feel; at least when it came to the interior of the Corolla; specially materials. Of course this feel will generally carry on to the perceived overall quality of the vehicle. My friend ended up buying the Civic.

Btw, are you a Toyota certified technician or just a serious fan of the brand?

Thanks again!

 

Here what info I have which may not be complete.

2003
4 cyl used U140E 4-speed auto
V6 used U241E 4-peed auto
All autotrans used T-IV trans fluid

2004
A 3MZ-FE engine was offered
4 cylinder used U241E
V6 used U151E 5-speed
All autotrans used T-IV

2005
4 cyl trans changed to U250E 5-spd. Used Type T-IV fluid
V6 options used U151E

2006
Same as 2005

A manual 5 spd was offered only with 4-cylinder engine. Have no info on when the chain needs replacing. If like most timing chains they start to make noise as they age and seldon break. Guessing replacement cost would be higher if only because the timing chain should cost more then a belt and it might be more time consuming to remove the timing chain cover.

Would assume 4-cyl is interferance engine as it has variable valve timing.

An SE version was offered for all years.

The WS fluid was introduced in 2007. Recommend changing T-IV fluid every 30K miles, you should be able to do this yourself.

The 1MZ-FE is 3.0L engine
3MZ-FE is 3.3L
2AZ-FE is 2.4L

Not a Toyota Tech. Starting reading up on Toyota in order to repair the Camry that replaced an aging Accord. Toyota models appear to have lot in common and often what is learned on another model can be applied to Camry or other makes of cars I end up repairing or offering advice, friends, family, etc.

Unfortunately do not have much faith in repair shops, although there has been the rare great repair shop.

I find answering car questions relaxing as it is straight forward, most of the time non-political or ambiguous (YES!). I can almost always come up with a solution -unlike life with all its current chaos, spin, BS, etc.

 

i have an 05 camry with 120k..2.4 5spd auto..no major problems noted yet..rotors seem to warp easy or perhaps its my driving style.. Tranny is weird..not sure if its the transmission or the drive by wire or the combination of both but either way its a fun car to drive. Ive changed the fluid and filter at 100k an changed fluid every 30k...only problem which im not sure is a problem is the car drops hard into 2nd gear if not on the gaspedal all the way. I had a celica gts auto that did the same thing so its just a puzzling problem ive had with toyotas i guess.. but all in all with 120k i still get 24mpg city and 29 highway at 90mph...theres just no arguement that can be made in this thread with those impressive results... basic oil changes, brakes, rotors and tires and this thing will go another 100 k even the plugs at 110k look good but very worn... i cant speak on behalf of bmw however

 

toyomoho,
Affirmative on the variable valve timing causing interference and also on the lack of confidence in repair shops.On the latter, that's how Istarted doing all the work on my Mustang some 10+ years ago.After leaving the car at two dealerships, one forthree days, and neither being able to diagnosea bad ignition pickup coil(yes, thisthing has an old schooldistributor), Ibought the repair manual and became pretty good at diagnosingand fixing.

05cam,
At how many miles did you replace the timing chain? Can the rotors be warping when you hit water and they're really hot? Have you tried different makes of rotors and if so, what's the most stable? The BMW is more expensive to buy and maintain and less reliable, but boy are they a pleasure to drive.


More Questions that perhaps I should post in another section:

Anyone know if all the SEs come with a rear spoiler?

Anyone know if all the XLEs come with the fake wood trim?

Can someone give me some names of decent, yet affortable, springs and dampers to stiffen up the suspension? I'm just trying to get a feel for price.

Thanks again!

 

I havent replaced the timing chain yet. Maybe at 150k ill break her down and get around to it...But timing chains should last as long as the motor does with out need to be changing unless it presents a problem itself. Perhaps im wrong and theres actually a service schedule to it. But ive always left it be unless it became noisy or indicated it needed attention.
As for rotors i bought cheap bendix ones cause at the time i worked for the parts place i was at and got a good deal. I cant remember exactly when i changed them ..i want to say 85 k. the old ones didnt need changed but due to mileage i didnt it anyways. I live in florida and the heat down here is horrible on the tires brakes rotors etc. So maybe thats a good reason or like i said its my driving habit.?Keep in mind im 22 also. Ill be changing those over to drilled and slotted soon enough Ive always had ceramic pads on them and never had a caliper issue yet. I guess for such a big car they could have given the le models rear disc instead of drums to help the front brakes out but its toyota not bmw as far as i know xle se both come with rear disc not drums.. xle and se usually come with rear spoilers but then agian i think thats also opitional.

Bmw's for the most part have always been a nice car and very dependent aslongs you take care of them. As well any other car. Just expensive to repair i think.

Toyota has always been a favorite of mine. Always started up and got me home no problems. Thats why i still buy them instead of something else.. That and they'll take a beating and keep going. I love it about these cars. Not to mention its atleast 10grand cheaper out the door than a bmw..

 

trd makes some suspension parts for this car but not a whole lot....lowering springs sway bars etc....just thought id throw that in there