2014 Camry SE with the 2.5L engine.
This seems really weird- The original (I think) battery finally crapped out and was replaced. Now, the air conditioner blower fan will not work. Also, oddly enough, the compressor won't cycle OFF. The clutch on the compressor is always engaged, regardless of where the switches on the control panel are placed (even when they are turned off). But I could hear the blend doors and the defrost/front panel doors moving when selected. The fuses are all good under the dash as well as the engine compartment power box. I didn't see any relays in the fan circuit. The wiring diagram just shows three wires going to the fan. One coming off the 50-amp fusible link which looks good in the view window, and the other two wires come from something called an "Air Conditioning Amplifier". The Amplifier is pricey, or else I'd just try it. Am I missing anything else?? Is there a reset or something I could try? I already tried disconnecting the battery once more thinking something might "re-boot". It didn't help.

 

Start by unplugging the wire to the clutch and determine if it now turns off.

 

Learning as I go.
Apparently there's such a thing as a "clutchless" compressor - where the end plate always turns. The internals of the compressor adjust to how much freon compression actually takes place, based on a pulse-width modulated signal from the A/C amplifier. The car is about 60 miles away (daughter at college), so my time with it is infrequent. This will be an interesting discovery as I dig into this further....

For the original problem, I'm hoping I just have a blower fan issue, and not something fried during the battery change.

 

Not up to speed on this year A/C so may not be much help.

Yes, later cars had the internal clutch.

The blower unit has internal electronics to respond to the output signal of the A/C amp. The amp putting out pulses as a control. The 50A is the power source for motor. One wire to the blower is grounded (might be white/black) the other goes to the amp (red?).

The climate system operates via the A/C amp and can be complicated to diagnose. Toyota always refers to their propitiatory diagnostic scanner for troubleshooting which DIY'ers don't have It even has its own diagnostic system. Suppose a OBDII scanner with Toyota A/C codes ("B" codes) might also work. The non-automatic climate system may have built-in diagnostic system that outputs troublecodes via the display.

Could be disconnecting power caused the system to need re-initializing, yet some controls are responding. Another possibility is the motor circuits were damaged. A bad fan circuit board is not uncommon. You could start by checking for 12V at the blower motor harness plug-in.

Since you have limited time at the car site and understand the electronics suggest going to the source. Toyota has website where for $20 can download all the technical info wanted for 2 days.

https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfo....toyota.com%2F

For $20 can download all the technical info wanted for 2 days.

Might try checking out the Toyotanation.com site. Would assume Toyota used the same design system in many car models.

 

Great info - Thanks!

I had something similar on a 99 Audi a few years ago where I had to re-initialize (Audi calls it an "adaptation") the drive-by-wire throttle after a battery change. It was a one-time thing where I was able to borrow the right tools and equipment (called VCDS). For this car, I may just recommend to them a visit to either a Toyota dealer or independent shop who might be familiar to Toyota. I can understand the wiring well enough, but have no way of testing or diagnosing a circuit board, unless it's power in/out.