I have a 2009 Camry V6 with an issue I thought was an alternator. It would not charge the battery and would eventually shut off. I measured the voltage at the battery while running and it never went above 12V and like I said eventually shut off. I replaced the alternator, same issue Tested the battery in another car with a known good charging system and it charged just fine. Looking close at the 4-pin connector that connects to the alternator I noticed that the insulation was scuffed by the location where the harness branches off. Pulling back the tape the red wire was changing on by a couple of strands of wire. I would like to find out where this routes and if it goes over the top of the engine I can probably put a splice in. I got a diagram from the local parts store, but the colors do not match. I suppose I can tone out to the fuse block to verify which one it is. It looks like the wires feed 4 fuses, 2 for the alternator and 2 for the instrument panel
I am trying to avoid buying a new wiring harness if at all possible. Any help appreciated.

 

What are the wire colors?

Looks like the wires go to the top of the engine with the increasing larger wiring harness.

Remove enough insulation to access good wiring then splice wires by color.

Some of these wires are always, remove battery connection before splicing.

 

The wire colors were red/green, yellow and red. I unwrapped the loom and tape and the wires did indeed go up over the top of the engine which gave me enough slack to cut out the inch worth of damage, solder and heat shrink everything. The yellow was also partially cut so I just cut all three and soldered them all. It appears to be charging fine now and hopefully the boy doesn't make any more work for me.

I thin the battery may also be on its last legs staying around 13.8 V with no accessories on. With a load on it it seems to run in the 12ish volts. Probably might make one more winter.

 

Great job on the repair!

12.8v is a fully charged battery.

Check voltage at battery when charging, engine at approx 2000 rpm. Should be approx 13.2-14.8 volts.

For future ref:
Red = Gauge No 1 fuse.
Yel = Gauge No 2 fuse.
Green/red = Alt-S fuse

 

I have a feeling the original alternator was also at fault. Would any of the broken wires have caused the original alternator not to charge?

 

Yes they would. Forget which wires do what, but some need to be powered (ign key on) to get the alternator regulator to work.