P2240 & 2241 Frustrations
2012 Camry XLS 6cyl. A week ago my check engine light came on. Initial check; I made sure the gas cap was on tight. (Previously on a 2007 Avalon same issue, retightening the gas cap solved the issue??) Took the car to two different O'Rilly's, got the same three same error codes: P0051, P2240 & P2241. The tech guys at each store offered differing opinions. Bottom line I replaced the O2 sensor on Bank 1 Sensor 2 with a BOSCH Wideband A/F Sensor part #18081 from O'Rilly's. After driving the car a bit I expected the check engine light to go out. It never did. I removed the negative cable from the battery for 30 sec. thinking this might reset the error codes. It did not. I took the car to an Autozone this time. They read the codes and reported the same three errors; same bank and same sensor. The car is running fine, no surging at idle or while under power. The issue is frustrating because what am I missing?
I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks
I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks
2012 Camry XLS 6cyl. A week ago my check engine light came on. Initial check; I made sure the gas cap was on tight. (Previously on a 2007 Avalon same issue, retightening the gas cap solved the issue??) Took the car to two different O'Rilly's, got the same three same error codes: P0051, P2240 & P2241. The tech guys at each store offered differing opinions. Bottom line I replaced the O2 sensor on Bank 1 Sensor 2 with a BOSCH Wideband A/F Sensor part #18081 from O'Rilly's. After driving the car a bit I expected the check engine light to go out. It never did. I removed the negative cable from the battery for 30 sec. thinking this might reset the error codes. It did not. I took the car to an Autozone this time. They read the codes and reported the same three errors; same bank and same sensor. The car is running fine, no surging at idle or while under power. The issue is frustrating because what am I missing?
I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks
I appreciate any thoughts. Thanks
Those OBD readers at parts stores send people on a lot of wild goose chases.
Most folks throw an oxygen sensor at it, but this could easily be a manifold leak or even a bad gas cap. A real scan tool at a shop will tell you what's really wrong. (A competent shop will be happy to diagnose this for it even if you want to fix it yourself.)
Problem is, a lot of stuff could be going on which won't show up on an OBD scan, or would just send you in the wrong direction.
Parts store LOVE free scans because they sell a hell of a lot of parts people don't really need.
Thank you Jcountry. I did take the veracity of those scanners used at auto part stores into consideration. I took it to three different stores to see if there were differences with the scan readings. All three tests were consistent. Looking at the Q&As in this forum adivice is all over the place as to keep looking for issues or just have the error codes erased. My thought is to reset the error codes then see what happens before I give up and take it to the shop.
Thank you Jcountry. I did take the veracity of those scanners used at auto part stores into consideration. I took it to three different stores to see if there were differences with the scan readings. All three tests were consistent. Looking at the Q&As in this forum adivice is all over the place as to keep looking for issues or just have the error codes erased. My thought is to reset the error codes then see what happens before I give up and take it to the shop.
I think you need more info.
These codes can be caused by several things. The O2 sensor could be bad, or it could be throwing the code due to an out-of-range reading. That reading can be caused by a manifold leak, a clogged catalytic converter, or several other other things.
This is where the regular scanners can throw you off. With a shop scanner, they can check fuel trims, the entire emissions control system and sorts of other stuff.
The problem with those codes is they tell you that one or more of a few emissions-related components is throwing out an incorrect reading. They don't tell you why.
I'd probably hit up a shop. Many will do a full diagnosis for a small fee and let you fix it yourself if you wish.
Also, go with OEM parts if you possibly can. Aftermarket parts are total junk these days.
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