We are all stumped
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 3
We are all stumped
I have had several mechanics look into my camry to no avail. I am here because I need help diagnosing a problem with my '97 Toyota Camry LE.
To start, the issue.
When crank and sitting or in Neutral, it seems to have no issues. The engine runs fine and idles great.
In drive, 1, or 2 it will go for a bit (if it has not been driven for a few days to a week or more) but then it starts to stall. When it stalls, you have to really rev up the RPMS in order to get it above about 3000 rpms in order to get going again. If not, when pressing on the accelerator, it will continue to stall and act as if it is trying to get up and go. When going and have it above 3000 rpm, it will cut out but not be at total loss of power. If below, it will lose that power until you get back above 3000 rpm. If placed in neutral or park, it will have no problems with gaining those rpm. There also seems to be fuel back pressure because when I changed the fuel filter, fuel gushed out from the line leading to the engine.
The check engine light comes on rarely because it does not have a crank sensor. When I have it in park and start it, rev it up and get it warm, the O/D off light will begin to flash and continues to do so until the car is off. Now this light has come on before when driving just before the car starts to mess up but I can't always get it to code for a mechanic to check the code.
Things that have been done to the car:
Engine has been rebuilt as well as the transmission which happened before I purchased the car. Both only have about 5 thousand miles on them and started messing up around 3 thousand miles. Since I purchased at this point, the TPS has been replaced, the distributor, as well as the Fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pump tank screen. When the fuel filter was changed out the first time, the car ran fine for almost 40 miles. Prior to this time the tank was filled with premium gas as well as the appropriate amount of Seafoam to help with the internal cleaning of injectors and other internal engine parts. However, after changing the fuel pump and filter, there has not been another success of prolonged driving.
I really need help figuring out this issue and hoped that maybe someone else has had a similar problem that could shed some light for me. This is my families (wife, newborn son and myself) only car and have been using a small Ranger that my sister owns to get around. We need this car and can not afford another vehicle or down payment. Please help us figure out this issue.
To start, the issue.
When crank and sitting or in Neutral, it seems to have no issues. The engine runs fine and idles great.
In drive, 1, or 2 it will go for a bit (if it has not been driven for a few days to a week or more) but then it starts to stall. When it stalls, you have to really rev up the RPMS in order to get it above about 3000 rpms in order to get going again. If not, when pressing on the accelerator, it will continue to stall and act as if it is trying to get up and go. When going and have it above 3000 rpm, it will cut out but not be at total loss of power. If below, it will lose that power until you get back above 3000 rpm. If placed in neutral or park, it will have no problems with gaining those rpm. There also seems to be fuel back pressure because when I changed the fuel filter, fuel gushed out from the line leading to the engine.
The check engine light comes on rarely because it does not have a crank sensor. When I have it in park and start it, rev it up and get it warm, the O/D off light will begin to flash and continues to do so until the car is off. Now this light has come on before when driving just before the car starts to mess up but I can't always get it to code for a mechanic to check the code.
Things that have been done to the car:
Engine has been rebuilt as well as the transmission which happened before I purchased the car. Both only have about 5 thousand miles on them and started messing up around 3 thousand miles. Since I purchased at this point, the TPS has been replaced, the distributor, as well as the Fuel pump, fuel filter, and fuel pump tank screen. When the fuel filter was changed out the first time, the car ran fine for almost 40 miles. Prior to this time the tank was filled with premium gas as well as the appropriate amount of Seafoam to help with the internal cleaning of injectors and other internal engine parts. However, after changing the fuel pump and filter, there has not been another success of prolonged driving.
I really need help figuring out this issue and hoped that maybe someone else has had a similar problem that could shed some light for me. This is my families (wife, newborn son and myself) only car and have been using a small Ranger that my sister owns to get around. We need this car and can not afford another vehicle or down payment. Please help us figure out this issue.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,178
From: PTW
Any warranty on the trans and engine work?
When in neutral the engine is not under any load.
You will need to determine if the engine lacks power, or the trans is slipping. It does happen the trans slips and engine needs to be revved. Is the engine revving and the car not moving? Or engine stalling as if under excess load or has issues with making power.
The trans has its own trouble code system. If the O/D light is flashing the trans has a problem.
Might shop for low cost code reader to have in the car.
What type of mechanic/shop are you using, Toyota dealer, chain shop, independent?
When in neutral the engine is not under any load.
You will need to determine if the engine lacks power, or the trans is slipping. It does happen the trans slips and engine needs to be revved. Is the engine revving and the car not moving? Or engine stalling as if under excess load or has issues with making power.
The trans has its own trouble code system. If the O/D light is flashing the trans has a problem.
Might shop for low cost code reader to have in the car.
What type of mechanic/shop are you using, Toyota dealer, chain shop, independent?
Thread Starter
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Junior Member
Joined: Mar 2015
Posts: 3
The transmission was done in a Toyota shop but the engine was a rebuild by the person I purchased from. When in happens, it is in gear, but as if all power has been lost. It takes a good rev and the car slowly tries to move itself but doesnt really go but inches it seems. When my mechanic checked it, he could not get it to mess up after he replaced the pump and filter but about 10 miles after I got it back, it started having the same issue. Ive read here some similar problems and it looking to be the transmission cylinoid. I've also read some stuff regarding the speed control sensor that seemed to sync with what my issues are but not to this degree of severity. If it sits for a period of time, it can go 20 or so miles before it starts acting up. But, try driving it the next day and it just gets worse and worse.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,178
From: PTW
When the problem happens, does the engine check light come on or trans 0/D start to blink?
How about engine hot or cold.
Is trans shifting through the gears? Having the engine steady at 2800-3200 RPM seems to high unless O/D is off. Otherwise trans should shift down.
How about engine hot or cold.
Is trans shifting through the gears? Having the engine steady at 2800-3200 RPM seems to high unless O/D is off. Otherwise trans should shift down.
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2015
Posts: 1
i had the check engine light on and took it to autozone code was p0302
there was another code p0300 but there was a vaccum leak got that solved erased codes and was left with p0302 and when i idle at light with vehicle check engine light starts blinking but
there was another code p0300 but there was a vaccum leak got that solved erased codes and was left with p0302 and when i idle at light with vehicle check engine light starts blinking but
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