Can jacking car up damage ABS Sensor? 2010 Camry Hybrid
#1
Can jacking car up damage ABS Sensor? 2010 Camry Hybrid
Discount Tire guy used floor jacks, took my left side up pretty high! another guy came and removed/ reset the front left. And sent first attendant “to air pressure duty” As though he had done something wrong and was being demoted for a while. My tires got rotated and balanced but about 30 miles later, the ABS light, the tire pressure light, the brake light, and the antiskid light came on in unison. I stopped and checked for leaks, loose lugs, etc got codes read at AutoZone, and went to (another city) Discount tire store. They tried to help me and used their scanner, Tried to turn the lights off. No luck but 20 miles later they went off themselves. Since then the lights come on about every hundred miles and go off after about 80 miles. I haven’t been back to the original discount tire culprit because I had some commitments out of town and didn’t smell anything burning up. But if anyone has a clue what I should be looking for other than a loose wire or crimped, on the sensor, and I will bleed myBrakes as well because here are the codes c1241 ABS module voltage, and
C1391 (bleed brakes)
Does it seem likely that Discount Tire guy damaged it?
C1391 (bleed brakes)
Does it seem likely that Discount Tire guy damaged it?
#2
C1391. Fluid leakage or bad brake actuator assembly. The brake actuator is part of the anti-skid control system.
Check for brake fluid leaks and dragging brakes. Monitor brake fluid level. Perhaps brake system has air in it.
The ECU is sensing the brake actuator pump is operating too frequently without the driver actually braking.
C1241. Battery, charging system, power to brake antilock system, internal skid unit problem. Low voltage is noted by the computer.
Note sure what the tire change mechanic could have done beyond damaging the brake line, brakes.
See private message.
Check for brake fluid leaks and dragging brakes. Monitor brake fluid level. Perhaps brake system has air in it.
The ECU is sensing the brake actuator pump is operating too frequently without the driver actually braking.
C1241. Battery, charging system, power to brake antilock system, internal skid unit problem. Low voltage is noted by the computer.
Note sure what the tire change mechanic could have done beyond damaging the brake line, brakes.
See private message.
#4
Following c1391 diagnostic code
I did change the absensor on the left front wheel. Made no difference. Then saw this video and heard the telltale noise- which I thought had to do w my hybrid battery til I watched.
So I’m going on eBay to find a new “module” but it’s a little confusing, after installation do I have to do the brake bleeding in order, right front, left front, don’t touch the car for two minutes, left rear, right rear. I only heard this on a soundtrack of the video is there someway to confirm it? Thanks for advice!
So I’m going on eBay to find a new “module” but it’s a little confusing, after installation do I have to do the brake bleeding in order, right front, left front, don’t touch the car for two minutes, left rear, right rear. I only heard this on a soundtrack of the video is there someway to confirm it? Thanks for advice!
#5
If the master cylinder reservoir was not run dry Toyota shows to pedal pump the brakes to bleed each wheel. No preference is stated for what wheel is first.
The module is then bleed at the module which has bleed screw but now using a hand pump pressure bleeder on the reservoir at 14.2 psi..
The module is then bleed at the module which has bleed screw but now using a hand pump pressure bleeder on the reservoir at 14.2 psi..
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