Is this my 1995 Camry's MAF?
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Hello.
A follow-up on the shaking of the steering wheel, (quieter in neutral) with some cracking of the drivers side 'axel / joint when turning.
This morning the Camry was at the mechanic for the appointment to have the CV joint replaced which after test driving it, he also believed it was the issue.
After removing the CV joint he said it's not the CV joint itself.
He showed me the removed joint and there is some slight wear but here are some notes I jotted down as I really couldn't understand all of it. "Output sleeve sits on bearings that are going out".
At first he said 'input sleeve'. I have little idea about this.
Apparently with the axel taken off his helper gave the car some gas and they saw some movement and play. He advised me to take the Camry to a transmission specialist and said it wasn't a huge job but he wasn't well equipped to do the work needed. He could have installed the new CV joint and it could have "improved the smoothness by 10%" but eventually the new axel would be affected". (of course).
The good news - I guess is that when I drained some transmission fluid last week and added new, although the old fluid was medium brown in color and quite thick, there were no metal filings or shards to be seen.
So I guess I'll take it to the Transmission place.
Thank you for the help you've given, at least it's a case of eliminating possibilities, and this next fix could eliminate the shaking problem.
A follow-up on the shaking of the steering wheel, (quieter in neutral) with some cracking of the drivers side 'axel / joint when turning.
This morning the Camry was at the mechanic for the appointment to have the CV joint replaced which after test driving it, he also believed it was the issue.
After removing the CV joint he said it's not the CV joint itself.
He showed me the removed joint and there is some slight wear but here are some notes I jotted down as I really couldn't understand all of it. "Output sleeve sits on bearings that are going out".
At first he said 'input sleeve'. I have little idea about this.
Apparently with the axel taken off his helper gave the car some gas and they saw some movement and play. He advised me to take the Camry to a transmission specialist and said it wasn't a huge job but he wasn't well equipped to do the work needed. He could have installed the new CV joint and it could have "improved the smoothness by 10%" but eventually the new axel would be affected". (of course).
The good news - I guess is that when I drained some transmission fluid last week and added new, although the old fluid was medium brown in color and quite thick, there were no metal filings or shards to be seen.
So I guess I'll take it to the Transmission place.
Thank you for the help you've given, at least it's a case of eliminating possibilities, and this next fix could eliminate the shaking problem.
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Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 81
The (new) mechanic since the replacing the CV joint would have been $130 cheaper than my usual mechanic said he wasn't sure of the name of the part as I asked him three times so I could jot it down.
Something about the 'output sleeve' that sits on a bearing that the axel fits into on the transmission was worn giving the axel too much play when moving. He showed me a bit of wear on that part of the axel when he brought it into where I was waiting.
It actually sounds just like what you are asking toyomoho.. that maybe he meant to say differential rather than 'transmission'. I don't drive too far daily and there's maybe one drip under the car daily but it doesn't seem to come from under that area.
I just watched a YouTube video of replacing a 1995 front drivers side axel and he said something about a 'snap ring'.. and that when removing the axel to be careful not to damage it. Could this mechanic have meant the snap ring is worn?
Thank you for responding.
Something about the 'output sleeve' that sits on a bearing that the axel fits into on the transmission was worn giving the axel too much play when moving. He showed me a bit of wear on that part of the axel when he brought it into where I was waiting.
It actually sounds just like what you are asking toyomoho.. that maybe he meant to say differential rather than 'transmission'. I don't drive too far daily and there's maybe one drip under the car daily but it doesn't seem to come from under that area.
I just watched a YouTube video of replacing a 1995 front drivers side axel and he said something about a 'snap ring'.. and that when removing the axel to be careful not to damage it. Could this mechanic have meant the snap ring is worn?
Thank you for responding.
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Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,179
From: PTW
Is the trans leaking trans fluid from the differential seal where the axle installs?
There is no apparent input or output sleeve where the axle plugs in. The axle installs through the differential housing into the differential carrier inside it and which is supported by a bearing on each side. The seal installs from the outside by press fit.
If the mechanic is stating its an easy job to replace the sleeve then assume this repair does not involve removing the trans and taking it apart which is a big job.
The 1995 4-cylinder trans has a fluid housing for the transmission AND the differential. If the differential is dripping fluid make sure its housing does not run dry. There is a fluid fill plug on the firewall side of the housing where the axles install. The fluid level should be at the bottom of the filler hole as in fill until it starts to run out the hole. The differential uses the same fluid as the trans.
There is no apparent input or output sleeve where the axle plugs in. The axle installs through the differential housing into the differential carrier inside it and which is supported by a bearing on each side. The seal installs from the outside by press fit.
If the mechanic is stating its an easy job to replace the sleeve then assume this repair does not involve removing the trans and taking it apart which is a big job.
The 1995 4-cylinder trans has a fluid housing for the transmission AND the differential. If the differential is dripping fluid make sure its housing does not run dry. There is a fluid fill plug on the firewall side of the housing where the axles install. The fluid level should be at the bottom of the filler hole as in fill until it starts to run out the hole. The differential uses the same fluid as the trans.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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So grateful for your help and knowledge.
....no leaks from the differential / axel on the drivers side, or at all.
I just checked under the car since it had been parked for two hours after us running around shopping - I replaced the cardboard with a new piece too before we left-no drips there.
.
There's usually only one drop of oil underneath on the passenger side close to the front, and it's motor oil.
I hope not seeing any trans fluid drips doesn't mean there is no fluid in the differential.... but that can't be since there has never been a leak there. I suppose that's a little promising.
The mechanic yesterday said that the transmission fluid / change I did 10 days ago actually would fill both the transmission and go into the differential too, but he may be mistaken, I don't know.
In fact when the car was driven to me after the old axel was re-installed I asked him if I needed to add some transmission fluid and he said "only a few drops came out". I did check once I got home and the level was good and at the same level it was when I drained and filled with new a few days ago.
I would hope the problem could be fixed without removing the transmission and it would seem so (maybe) since there was apparently no difficulty, resistance nor broken parts found, when the old axel was removed and re-installed, although that's just me surmising.
Tomorrow, once it stops raining here I will locate the differential housing plug - just one plug right?.. and I have a turkey baster to add oil if needed. Would I be looking for the fill bolt at the back of the transmission housing at the firewall or on the side of the housing facing out to the drivers side wheel? Thank you.
I was going to do a second drain and fill transmission fluid in a week or two but it would be a waste at this point if the transmission is to be worked on.
....no leaks from the differential / axel on the drivers side, or at all.
I just checked under the car since it had been parked for two hours after us running around shopping - I replaced the cardboard with a new piece too before we left-no drips there.
.
There's usually only one drop of oil underneath on the passenger side close to the front, and it's motor oil.
I hope not seeing any trans fluid drips doesn't mean there is no fluid in the differential.... but that can't be since there has never been a leak there. I suppose that's a little promising.
The mechanic yesterday said that the transmission fluid / change I did 10 days ago actually would fill both the transmission and go into the differential too, but he may be mistaken, I don't know.
In fact when the car was driven to me after the old axel was re-installed I asked him if I needed to add some transmission fluid and he said "only a few drops came out". I did check once I got home and the level was good and at the same level it was when I drained and filled with new a few days ago.
I would hope the problem could be fixed without removing the transmission and it would seem so (maybe) since there was apparently no difficulty, resistance nor broken parts found, when the old axel was removed and re-installed, although that's just me surmising.
Tomorrow, once it stops raining here I will locate the differential housing plug - just one plug right?.. and I have a turkey baster to add oil if needed. Would I be looking for the fill bolt at the back of the transmission housing at the firewall or on the side of the housing facing out to the drivers side wheel? Thank you.
I was going to do a second drain and fill transmission fluid in a week or two but it would be a waste at this point if the transmission is to be worked on.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,179
From: PTW
Look on the housing where the axles install. If there is a separate fluid housing for the differential there will be a drain plug under the housing and a fill plug on the side of the housing that faces the firewall.
If no plugs there may be a boss on the housing (flat area) where the holes for the plugs would have been manufactured into the housing.
If there are plugs, don't drain the fluid until you are sure the fill plug can be removed as sometimes it's frozen.
If no plugs there may be a boss on the housing (flat area) where the holes for the plugs would have been manufactured into the housing.
If there are plugs, don't drain the fluid until you are sure the fill plug can be removed as sometimes it's frozen.
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Joined: Jul 2017
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Thank you again Toyomoho for our help and great tips which narrowed down the problems possibilities.
I had the Camry checked out at a respected transmission shop here in Portland today. They found that the cause of the shaking in gear and the clicking noise is due to worn bearings inside the transmission whereby there isn't much they can do.
They had looked for a good used one in the vicinity since I had enquired there but there were none and will keep looking. They said the other side is starting to loosen but that the vehicle is OK to drive still for a while and there are no leaks.
I drove to another good mechanics shop I have used in the past but only seldom since it's a way off and he recommended the LKQ website and 'Jasper'. I just checked out the LKQ website and may call them, 'Jasper', I had thought was a website but I found it's an online used vehicle place in Jasper Alabama...or so it looks like.
That's about it for now. Thank you.
I had the Camry checked out at a respected transmission shop here in Portland today. They found that the cause of the shaking in gear and the clicking noise is due to worn bearings inside the transmission whereby there isn't much they can do.
They had looked for a good used one in the vicinity since I had enquired there but there were none and will keep looking. They said the other side is starting to loosen but that the vehicle is OK to drive still for a while and there are no leaks.
I drove to another good mechanics shop I have used in the past but only seldom since it's a way off and he recommended the LKQ website and 'Jasper'. I just checked out the LKQ website and may call them, 'Jasper', I had thought was a website but I found it's an online used vehicle place in Jasper Alabama...or so it looks like.
That's about it for now. Thank you.
Super Moderator
Joined: Jan 2008
Posts: 15,179
From: PTW
See link for Jasper.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1995...t=gws-wiz-serp
The trans model is "A140E." The basic model was used for many years in many Toyota models of cars in many countries. There must be a million plus of this trans out there.
The issue is the trans design changed slightly over the years and the gearing could change with car model. You want one that is used in your year/model car. Thought the 1994 and 1995 4 cylinder Camry trans model was the exact same.
Ebay may sell used transmission and list what years of trans is the exact same.
Look for trans under the trans model number/make/model/yr of your car.
The drivers side door has a sticker on it listing the trans model.
Rebuilt trans seem expensive for the cars age and value. On the flip side the trans can and does fail if abused or the fluid is never changed thus who knows about a used trans.
The differential housing can be removed separately if the bearing needs replacing, but the replacement bearings may require fitting shims for clearance as the new/old bearings may not have the exact seem widths.
Read up on rebuilding the differential. Search under A140E trans/differential rebuilding for youtube videos.
Until then drive car Since the trans diff is under more load when accelerating try not to hot foot it. Keep checking for trans fluid leaks from the differential axle seals. More bearing play may or may not damage the seals. The differential is not pressurized thus fluid not going to spray out from a seal leak just drip.
https://www.google.com/search?q=1995...t=gws-wiz-serp
The trans model is "A140E." The basic model was used for many years in many Toyota models of cars in many countries. There must be a million plus of this trans out there.
The issue is the trans design changed slightly over the years and the gearing could change with car model. You want one that is used in your year/model car. Thought the 1994 and 1995 4 cylinder Camry trans model was the exact same.
Ebay may sell used transmission and list what years of trans is the exact same.
Look for trans under the trans model number/make/model/yr of your car.
The drivers side door has a sticker on it listing the trans model.
Rebuilt trans seem expensive for the cars age and value. On the flip side the trans can and does fail if abused or the fluid is never changed thus who knows about a used trans.
The differential housing can be removed separately if the bearing needs replacing, but the replacement bearings may require fitting shims for clearance as the new/old bearings may not have the exact seem widths.
Read up on rebuilding the differential. Search under A140E trans/differential rebuilding for youtube videos.
Until then drive car Since the trans diff is under more load when accelerating try not to hot foot it. Keep checking for trans fluid leaks from the differential axle seals. More bearing play may or may not damage the seals. The differential is not pressurized thus fluid not going to spray out from a seal leak just drip.
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Member
Joined: Jul 2017
Posts: 81
This is such good information. Thank you very much and for taking time for us and providing some tips, links and ammunition to know some possible next steps.
it's good to hear there should / could be enough Camry transmissions still to be purchased, including compatible ones not from my specific Camry.
I did find a few online, some looked really rusty but then there's this I found on eBay for less than $300. https://www.ebay.com/itm/28551589526...Bk9SR6rvppu3Yw
Maybe that long link won't open but there will be some to choose from (although seemingly not in the Portland area) which is good to know especially considering how so few people now own these older models and have no need in parts. Here are the details from that listing
JDM-50K AVG MILES.SHIPS FREE TO WESTERN WA AT CHECKOUT!
foreignengines
I searched Jasper and they apparently don't have what I need and the LKQ site doesn't carry transmissions but I have sent an email to the mechanic at the transmission shop from last Thursday 'prompting' him to please keep looking and adding a couple of eBay transmissions that are for sale. We'll see if he's interested enough but there are two or maybe three transmission shops not too far away from us that I will try on Tuesday.
As you have said- one never knows until a used one is installed if it's usable, therefore best to have a professional check one out online, send for it and get a warranty for a return if no good.
Thank you!
it's good to hear there should / could be enough Camry transmissions still to be purchased, including compatible ones not from my specific Camry.
I did find a few online, some looked really rusty but then there's this I found on eBay for less than $300. https://www.ebay.com/itm/28551589526...Bk9SR6rvppu3Yw
Maybe that long link won't open but there will be some to choose from (although seemingly not in the Portland area) which is good to know especially considering how so few people now own these older models and have no need in parts. Here are the details from that listing
1994 1995 TOYOTA CAMRY 2.2L 4 CYL AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION A140E
JDM-50K AVG MILES.SHIPS FREE TO WESTERN WA AT CHECKOUT!foreignengines
- (1067)
I searched Jasper and they apparently don't have what I need and the LKQ site doesn't carry transmissions but I have sent an email to the mechanic at the transmission shop from last Thursday 'prompting' him to please keep looking and adding a couple of eBay transmissions that are for sale. We'll see if he's interested enough but there are two or maybe three transmission shops not too far away from us that I will try on Tuesday.
As you have said- one never knows until a used one is installed if it's usable, therefore best to have a professional check one out online, send for it and get a warranty for a return if no good.
Thank you!