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1998 Power Window Install Advice Needed

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Old 06-30-2010, 08:34 PM
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Question 1998 Power Window Install Advice Needed

First let me say hello to all. I'm new to this forum, and just bought a 1998 Camry. I used to own a late-model BMW and Lotus Elise, but I lost my job, then house, then cars due to the bad economy ( ouch). So now I'm in a 1998 Camry with high miles. It's fine with me though, because it's a reliable car, and this forum looks like it has a great bunch of people, so I'll drive it with pride. Besides, I've got plenty of years left to turn things around again, and life isn't all about what you own anyway. Well, that's my introduction. Now on to my question...

When I bought the car, the driver's side power window wouldn't go down. I noticed the switch was broken, so I figured that was the problem. Well, it was PART of the problem. After replacing it, the window went down and wouldn't go back up (Doh!). So I ordered a new power window motor and regulator. My question is, does anyone know of an online source where I can find step-by-step installation instructions? Does anyone who has done this have any advice before I start? Thanks very much.
 
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Old 07-01-2010, 12:23 PM
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Welcome to CF!

The Camry should be a reliable car.

For info on the window regulator/motor suggest visiting the AutoZone website and registering (free) to use the sites repair guides. The site has detailed info on doing the job. Plus a few wiring diagrams.

One issue for older Camry is the wiring between the drivers door and chassis can break due to door usage resulting in issues with the windows (and sometimes door locks).

When doing repairs keep in mind the window motor wiring is not typically. One power wire from the motor is not grounded to the frame.

Motor rotational direction controls the up/down action of the window. The driver console switch applies power to the motor via 2 wires. Changes in the wire power polarity via switch direction achieves desired rotation.

Each individual passenger door window switch also has a separate constant hot power wire coming from the drivers console. The individual window switch controls the connections of this power to one or the other electrical connections of the motor, AND connects return power from the motor to one of the 2 wires stated above.

When you get the door apart disconnect the wiring from the motor and apply power directly to the motor in both polarity directions to determine if the motor/regulator work.
 
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Old 07-01-2010, 01:00 PM
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That is exactly the advice I needed. Very useful info. Thanks so much!
 
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Old 07-02-2010, 03:25 AM
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Job done. Here are some tips for anyone reading this in the future who is going to do this:

- When you take out the last bolt holding the regulator/motor assembly, it will fall down. If your hand is in the access hole at that time, your fingers will get crushed. Ouch.

- Make sure the glass is properly in the tracks on both sides before putting back in the two bolts that attach it to the regulator.

- The glass will get all greasy while you're removing it, as will your hands. Wash off both once you get the glass out of the door, because it's hard to maneuver it back in place with grease on it (slippery).

- Pay attention to which screw goes where when you remove the door panel.
 
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Old 08-25-2010, 03:34 AM
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Thanks for the additional tips LetterX. I will keep those in mind. The power window of my car seems to be dysfunctional. I guess I have to replace the switch too.
 

Last edited by mikeross; 08-28-2010 at 05:17 AM.
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Old 10-29-2010, 09:49 PM
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I think having a good Power Window Regulator would be the key here. In this way, you would be able to really get things done and good for your needs. Hope that all is well by now.
 

Last edited by armandjones82; 11-01-2010 at 07:09 PM.
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:17 AM
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Originally Posted by armandjones82
Hope that all is well by now.
Yes, all is well now, thanks. I changed the motor and the regulator together, and it's been working perfect for the past four months. I got a great deal on a "like OEM" motor/regulator from a fixed-price listing on eBay. I forget exactly how much it was, but I believe it was under $40. I recommend this as a good DIY, especially considering how much the stealership or even a private mechanic will charge. It does take a couple of hours (especially the first time), but mechanical skill level required is low to moderate.
 
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Old 10-30-2010, 06:20 PM
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Great job!

Thanks for posting back with your results.
 
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