The plate/bracket to which I am referring in the above prior post is circled here.

 

Alignment pins in the carrier bearing mount/engine interface found! Went ahead and tried pulling off the tranny with the axle still inserted. It came out ok. Have to do something about the stuck carrier bearing. I could reinstall the tranny and then cut/pull the alignment pins so I can put the whole passenger half axle/carrier bearing stuck in mount unit back in.

Thanks for your help toyomoho. We'll see how much fun I have putting it all back together after I get the seals replaced.

 

Does this engine 3.0L V6 have an upper oil pan? Someone suggested I replace the main oil seal (toyomoho suggested this as well) and upper and lower oil pan gaskets while I have everything open.

 

I was wondering if I should also be looking for something other than/in addition to the torque converter seal which could have cause the transmission to leak like it was. It wasn't just dripping it was flowing, at times, in a small stream. The torque converter seal that is currently installed is a seal with a metal case and a rubber lining. The seals I see selling are all rubber casing. The rubber lining looked like it might be more brittle and uncompliant than it should but it showed no damage. Rock Auto shows a torque converter repair sleeve. Is that something I should worry about? Would the transmission even function if someone had incorrectly installed the torque converter and caused damage to the pump or something else? Transmission worked great just a very bad leak.

 

When i removed the seal, the rubber within the metal casing crumbled into many pieces. The other axle seals were fine. Is there something besides age and/or a bad lot of seals which could have caused the seal to fail like that? The person who I bought the car from thought the transmission was rebuilt. Seems like replacing the torque converter seal would have been a must. Any recommendations for brands of seals? I am also replacing the axle seals and the rear crankshaft seal. The crankshaft seal is quite expensive for a seal except for Autozone who is selling a Duralast seal at almost a third of what OReillys and others are selling. Any thoughts on Duralast seals?

 

Good job to date.

The engine has a normal oil pan that holds oil for the pump pickup Above this is another "oil pan" above that bolts to the block.

Did you compare the leaking fluid to engine oil and transmission fluid?

Transmission could work until the fluid in the pan got lower then the pump pickup.

Check if the transmission flex plate is bent or has other problems that could cause alignment issues of the converter shaft and seal.

Rockauto should have all the seals and at reasonable prices.

The sleeve is to repair a shafts sealing surfaces (contacts seal) that are too damaged to seal properly.

 

The leaking fluid looked like transmission fluid. I was only asking about the upper oil pan because apparently the gasket cant be changed without tearing everything down like it is now. Flex plate doesn't appear bent but a couple of the bolt holes appear to be a little oval. Ordered seals from Rock Auto. I had purchased Duralast seals from Autozone but someone said those seals might not be the best quality so I returned all except for the National brand torque converter seal I bought from them and ordered SKF seals for everything else (no oil pan seals however). I also picked up a boot for the driver side shaft. Still working on getting the carrier bearing out of the mount on the passenger side shaft. Have it sitting vertical in the garage with the back side of the carrier bearing soaking in PBBlaster hoping gravity might help PBBlaster work its way in between the mount and the outer surface of the bearing.

 

Just curious if it is possible to replace the rubber part of the motor mount I am currently trying to get the carrier bearing out of. It seems to be a little more loose than it should be. It is hard to tell if it is torn the way it has been manufactured. It also looks like it is pressed in to the cylinder it is in.

 

Can't find any replacement bushing.

 

Letting the top leading edge soak in PBBlaster overnight and then being able to heat that same area along with some stiff hammering seems to have done the trick. Carrier bearing is out.