P0141 Code Won't Go Away!
Hi there!
Looking for some advice for my '99 Camry XLE V6 with 130K miles. A month ago I took my car into the shop for a CEL. I had codes for all the O2 sensors and the shop replaced them with Denso sensors. All the O2 codes went away except the P0141 code. I replaced the sensor a second time and the code still will not go away.
I took it to a different shop that specializes in Toyotas and they tested the electronics and said everything was good with the sensor and the wiring between the sensor and the ECM.
-12V to O2 heater is good
-Ground signal from ECM to turn heater on is good (at times)
-Ground to sensor is good
-Heater in the sensor is good
While testing to ground signal to O2 heater from ECM it read 0V at idle once (13V at first 10 seconds). Compared this to signal to B2S1 (read 13V). Then retested B1S2 signal again and it read 13V.
They are now telling me that I need a new ECM, but the car runs perfect. I am just not convinced it is the ECM and I do not want to drop $1500 when the car is running fine.
Could anything else be causing this code? Possible exhaust leaks, bad fuse, bad EFI relay, vacuum leak?
Thank you for any help you can provide!
Looking for some advice for my '99 Camry XLE V6 with 130K miles. A month ago I took my car into the shop for a CEL. I had codes for all the O2 sensors and the shop replaced them with Denso sensors. All the O2 codes went away except the P0141 code. I replaced the sensor a second time and the code still will not go away.
I took it to a different shop that specializes in Toyotas and they tested the electronics and said everything was good with the sensor and the wiring between the sensor and the ECM.
-12V to O2 heater is good
-Ground signal from ECM to turn heater on is good (at times)
-Ground to sensor is good
-Heater in the sensor is good
While testing to ground signal to O2 heater from ECM it read 0V at idle once (13V at first 10 seconds). Compared this to signal to B2S1 (read 13V). Then retested B1S2 signal again and it read 13V.
They are now telling me that I need a new ECM, but the car runs perfect. I am just not convinced it is the ECM and I do not want to drop $1500 when the car is running fine.
Could anything else be causing this code? Possible exhaust leaks, bad fuse, bad EFI relay, vacuum leak?
Thank you for any help you can provide!
P0141 is related to the heater circuit only.
Used ECM's are available very cheap on Ebay and from auto salvage yards. I
t's a plug-in part. No programming required.
Get the EXACT same part number as listed on the current ECM as these are programmed per the cars build features.
Used ECM's are available very cheap on Ebay and from auto salvage yards. I
t's a plug-in part. No programming required.
Get the EXACT same part number as listed on the current ECM as these are programmed per the cars build features.
P0141 is related to the heater circuit only.
Used ECM's are available very cheap on Ebay and from auto salvage yards. I
t's a plug-in part. No programming required.
Get the EXACT same part number as listed on the current ECM as these are programmed per the cars build features.
Used ECM's are available very cheap on Ebay and from auto salvage yards. I
t's a plug-in part. No programming required.
Get the EXACT same part number as listed on the current ECM as these are programmed per the cars build features.
Thank you for your reply!
The ECM P/N is 89661-06631. I see a lot of these on eBay, but the Toyota website says that this was replaced with 89661-0663184. Does this matter? Can I buy one of the cheap ECMs off eBay with P/N 89661-06631?
Also won't I need to program my keys in order to start the car, and also program my VIN to the new ECM?
The car has the immobilizer, bla.
Would assume the Toyota replacement P/N works for old P/N. However lots of ECU's with old part number around.
Get a used replacement ECU with its matched MASTER key and the ign lock key reader (reads RFID code in key). Then replace it all.
Can then add old ign keys to replacement ECU using the matched master key to add them.
There are internet companies that state they can wipe the replacement ECU and allow adding the Master key and or repair it.
There is something about the ECU capacitors failing and causing issues. Don't know if this is the problem for the trouble code not going away. Some owners have replaced the caps. Third third party companies claim they can repair the ECU.
A few sources below for replacement ECM's that are supposed to be drop in requiring no programming of chipped key.
https://store.allcomputerresources.c...-computer.html
Rebuilt ECMs, ECUs for Toyota Camry, - 5 year warranty
Camry ecm remanufactured and rebuilt for all camry ecu's
Would assume the Toyota replacement P/N works for old P/N. However lots of ECU's with old part number around.
Get a used replacement ECU with its matched MASTER key and the ign lock key reader (reads RFID code in key). Then replace it all.
Can then add old ign keys to replacement ECU using the matched master key to add them.
There are internet companies that state they can wipe the replacement ECU and allow adding the Master key and or repair it.
There is something about the ECU capacitors failing and causing issues. Don't know if this is the problem for the trouble code not going away. Some owners have replaced the caps. Third third party companies claim they can repair the ECU.
A few sources below for replacement ECM's that are supposed to be drop in requiring no programming of chipped key.
https://store.allcomputerresources.c...-computer.html
Rebuilt ECMs, ECUs for Toyota Camry, - 5 year warranty
Camry ecm remanufactured and rebuilt for all camry ecu's
Is it possible to program my current keys to the newly installed ECM that I buy off EBay?
I have seen videos of people doing this by plugging in a jumper wire into pins 4 and 13 of the datalink OBDII receiver.
I have seen videos of people doing this by plugging in a jumper wire into pins 4 and 13 of the datalink OBDII receiver.
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