new motor mounts shaking??
1993 Camry 4 cyl.
Had my mechanic put all new motor mounts in yesterday. It shakes worse now than it did before. My mechanic told me they need a few days to "settle in" to smoothen out.
Is this correct? I spoke to another mechanic and he says the same because it happens sometimes on front wheel drive cars.
any thoughts??
Had my mechanic put all new motor mounts in yesterday. It shakes worse now than it did before. My mechanic told me they need a few days to "settle in" to smoothen out.
Is this correct? I spoke to another mechanic and he says the same because it happens sometimes on front wheel drive cars.
any thoughts??
At 900 RPM it should idle smoother then you are experiencing.
What kind of parts were used? The front mount is hydraulic, perhaps the new part is "stiffer" then the Toyota original part.
Have you checked the engine for a dirty throttle body or IAC valve. issues with the plugs, plug wires, etc?
What kind of parts were used? The front mount is hydraulic, perhaps the new part is "stiffer" then the Toyota original part.
Have you checked the engine for a dirty throttle body or IAC valve. issues with the plugs, plug wires, etc?
Make sure the replacement front mount is hydraulic like the original mount.
Some owners have replaced the upper dog bone with one from a 1996 that has a larger rubber donut to dampen vibration.
Determine if the throttle plate adjustment is correct.
Clean throttle body and IAC valve. An internet search will generate lots of hits on both of these. The engine is a 5S-FE.
Check if exhaust systems flexpipe was replace with a solid section of pipe.
EGR valve may be slightly stuck open.
Vacuum hose leaks.
Some owners have replaced the upper dog bone with one from a 1996 that has a larger rubber donut to dampen vibration.
Determine if the throttle plate adjustment is correct.
Clean throttle body and IAC valve. An internet search will generate lots of hits on both of these. The engine is a 5S-FE.
Check if exhaust systems flexpipe was replace with a solid section of pipe.
EGR valve may be slightly stuck open.
Vacuum hose leaks.
The rear is a solid rubber unit type, typically does not have a problem.
The front is kind of like a shock absorber filled with fluid. Assume this would be the mount that absorbs the vibration.
Often the top mount goes bad. This is another rubber type but is a donut design. The donut can (and typically does) start to break down and allow excess movement. You can easily visually check this mount for damage. Watch the engine as someone guns the throttle, the engine should not move that much. Some owners replace this mount with one from one from a 1996-2001. The donut is larger and this is claimed to reduce vibration.
The transmission mount is solid rubber and typically has the least of the problems.
Would assume the front is more important as it is not your typically hard rubber unit but designed to absorb vibrations.
The front is kind of like a shock absorber filled with fluid. Assume this would be the mount that absorbs the vibration.
Often the top mount goes bad. This is another rubber type but is a donut design. The donut can (and typically does) start to break down and allow excess movement. You can easily visually check this mount for damage. Watch the engine as someone guns the throttle, the engine should not move that much. Some owners replace this mount with one from one from a 1996-2001. The donut is larger and this is claimed to reduce vibration.
The transmission mount is solid rubber and typically has the least of the problems.
Would assume the front is more important as it is not your typically hard rubber unit but designed to absorb vibrations.
I thought the both the rear and front mount acts like a shock absorber with fluid. Little did I know that the rear was made of solid rubber like material. Thanks for the info!
Last edited by mikeross; Jun 28, 2010 at 11:10 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




