Hey all I'm new here and I'm at my wits end with this issue.

I recently replaced all four struts ( keeping the springs), inner and outer tie rod ends on both sides and both lower control arms.
Went to get it aligned and it started shaking around 20 mph and got worse before smoothing out around 45. Note: it only smoothed out once the rpms had reached the lowest point to maintain speed, I let off throttle completely and it started shaking again once the car started slowing down.
The best way to get a consistent simulation was to get up to speed and set the cruise then ride for a minute or two before turning the cruise control off.
I get to my friends shop, he does the alignment with a laser machine and I tell him about the issue, he suggests we balance the front tires so we do on a high speed machine and turns out they where both off (thanks Walmart) and he tells me one of the wheels is slightly bent (wife hit a curb and got a flat).
I leave the shop to head home, pull out on the road and the shaking is still there. I take it easy getting home, it's late so I park and save it for another day.
Next day rolls around, I get home from work with the idea of rotating the tires from front to back as well as replacing a few broken studs. I decided to do one side at a time in hopes of pinpointing which tire is the issue. After doing both sides and zero change in the ride it's driving me crazy. I'm trying to get this car ready to sell asap and now it has this issue that it didn't before I replacement most of the front end.
I Spent 2 years working as an auto mechanic and have done all my own and most of my families auto repairs for the last 10 years and I know from experience that the simptoms described above sound like CV axle failure or wheel bearing but with the both front wheels off the ground and shaking everything down, everything feels tight.
Sorry for the lengthy post, just wanted to give as many details as I could, any insight or advice is greatly appreciated.
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Did the car have any shaking issues prior to the work being done?

Are you stating the shaking may be related to engine RPM in addition to MPH?

In a safe driving area, get the car to shake then shift into neutral. The idea is to try to rule out the transmission torque converter as a source.

For axles make a few sharp 360's left and right at listen for clicking and popping noise from the axle CV's.

 

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1. If it did have a shake before, it was minimal.
2. I don't think the shaking is related to rpm, I just found that at a regulated speed, ie the cruise control, is when it smoothed out. I will try the shifting to neutral idea though.
3. Have tried the sharp left and rights with no audible pops or clicks and no change in feel.
4. I talked to a friend who was once a certified Toyota tech and discussed the issue in detail. I explained that during the repairs I had removed both axles at one point and he said if I didn't put them back in the right way, then that could be the root of the problem but they're CV axles and in my experience as long as they pop in and seat then they're good and I can't find anything on the internet to show a specific way to put them in.

 

The drivers side axle is held into the differential by a spring clip/retainer. The axle typically needs to be rammed hard into the diff carrier gear to get the clip through the hole in the gear. The clip then expands on the other side of gear and locks the axle in place. Make sure the axle is firmly installed into the diff.

The passenger side axle is held into the diff by the axle carrier bearing. Make sure the bearing is locked into its housing by the clip retainer and bolt.

The axle bolt nuts are torqued to 217 ft lbs.

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