93 camry 4cyl won't start when hot
#12
I have not checked those. Is there an easy way to do that? The car always starts when cold but after driving for a while and then shutting it off - sometimes it doesnt restart when hot. Its throwing a code of 14 which is "Ignition. No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running ". I am not really skilled in car repair just
trying to get my camry back on the road. Would the low fuel pressure fool the computer
into generating no spark? I assume this is a tough problem and could be any # of issues.
I am able to test the fuel pressure regulator with an ohmeter or is it more complicated
than that?
Thanks
trying to get my camry back on the road. Would the low fuel pressure fool the computer
into generating no spark? I assume this is a tough problem and could be any # of issues.
I am able to test the fuel pressure regulator with an ohmeter or is it more complicated
than that?
Thanks
#14
Well, here we are 9 months later and now I can make this problem happen every time the engine is warm. Hoping someone can help me or this might get sold for scrap. Here is the current situation..
If I run the car for 15 minutes or more then let it sit for 5-10 minutes it will not start..every time. Over the past couple years the problem was very intermitant..maybe once every couple months. I have replaced the distributor (complete- coil and other components are inside of it) I have replaced the fuel filter, EFI relay and circuit open relay. I thought it must be a fuel problem. Today I waited for it to not start then I pulled the air intake off and sprayed starting fluid down the throttle body. It started right up and continued to idle just fine. I ran the test again later..no start, spray ether..start and run fine.
How can the engine not get fuel, but then run just fine with a spurt of spray. When it fires on the ether is that somehow restarting the fuel pump to give me fuel?? Any ideas at all would be greatly appreciated!!
If I run the car for 15 minutes or more then let it sit for 5-10 minutes it will not start..every time. Over the past couple years the problem was very intermitant..maybe once every couple months. I have replaced the distributor (complete- coil and other components are inside of it) I have replaced the fuel filter, EFI relay and circuit open relay. I thought it must be a fuel problem. Today I waited for it to not start then I pulled the air intake off and sprayed starting fluid down the throttle body. It started right up and continued to idle just fine. I ran the test again later..no start, spray ether..start and run fine.
How can the engine not get fuel, but then run just fine with a spurt of spray. When it fires on the ether is that somehow restarting the fuel pump to give me fuel?? Any ideas at all would be greatly appreciated!!
do this test , whit a hose clamp tool ,install the tool on the return fuel hose after the fuel pressure regulator, if engine start whit this on it you have a small leak on the fuel pressure regulator this will cause fuel to return back to the tank leaving the fuel injector rail empty it will produce a no start condition , second test is problem still present after test one
will need a fuel pressure gauge mount on the inlet side of the fuel rail ,perform a pressure test (with engine off cycle the key few times )save the reading install clamp just like on test one now let the gauge on and watch how much the pressure reading drops (no more then 10psi with in 10 minutes) if it does drop (bad check valve in fuel pump ) replace fuel pump . i know at lot of work
Last edited by boricua; 04-26-2012 at 07:19 PM.
#15
I have not checked those. Is there an easy way to do that? The car always starts when cold but after driving for a while and then shutting it off - sometimes it doesnt restart when hot. Its throwing a code of 14 which is "Ignition. No IGF signal to ECU for 4 consecutive IGT signal during engine running ". I am not really skilled in car repair just
trying to get my camry back on the road. Would the low fuel pressure fool the computer
into generating no spark? I assume this is a tough problem and could be any # of issues.
I am able to test the fuel pressure regulator with an ohmeter or is it more complicated
than that?
Thanks
trying to get my camry back on the road. Would the low fuel pressure fool the computer
into generating no spark? I assume this is a tough problem and could be any # of issues.
I am able to test the fuel pressure regulator with an ohmeter or is it more complicated
than that?
Thanks
#16
Sorry forgot to mention, it doesnt start when hot but it still cranks just wont catch
and run. I think awhile back I tried shorting B+ and Fp in the DIAG connector and it
did start after giving it quite a bit of gas with the pedal and cranking it for ~ 10 seconds.
Is this an indication of a fuel problem?
and run. I think awhile back I tried shorting B+ and Fp in the DIAG connector and it
did start after giving it quite a bit of gas with the pedal and cranking it for ~ 10 seconds.
Is this an indication of a fuel problem?
#17
If the code is 14 check for open or shorts in wiring between igniter and ECU, bad igniter or ECU problem.
Check coil, coils can fail when hot.
Check for 12V power at igniter when engine cranking (white/red wire).
The ECU is behind the glove box.
Disconnect igniter electrical plug. Check for voltage at igniter IGT wire at ECU (white) when engine cranking. Should be 0.5-1.0v
For auto trans cars when looking head on at the terminals on the ECU and the harness widest plug is on the left side, terminal location is on bottom row, 7 terminals over from left side.
Check IGF voltage when cranking. Should be 4.5-5.5v.
Ditto, terminal location is upper row, 11 terminals over from left side.
Check coil, coils can fail when hot.
Check for 12V power at igniter when engine cranking (white/red wire).
The ECU is behind the glove box.
Disconnect igniter electrical plug. Check for voltage at igniter IGT wire at ECU (white) when engine cranking. Should be 0.5-1.0v
For auto trans cars when looking head on at the terminals on the ECU and the harness widest plug is on the left side, terminal location is on bottom row, 7 terminals over from left side.
Check IGF voltage when cranking. Should be 4.5-5.5v.
Ditto, terminal location is upper row, 11 terminals over from left side.
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