08-28-2015, 10:53 AM
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Hard cold start
#11
11-19-2007, 08:27 AM
RE: Hard cold start
Thanks for the posts guys
I just bought a 99 Camry LE 4 Cyl. (23,000 miles) and experiencing cold start problems. The car had been sitting for a while. I had mice nests in my Air Filter box and in the Blower Motor/ Fan - I cleaned those out - I thought this may be causing the cold starting - Does anyone know if something is clogged in the hoses??
Thanks,
Ted
I just bought a 99 Camry LE 4 Cyl. (23,000 miles) and experiencing cold start problems. The car had been sitting for a while. I had mice nests in my Air Filter box and in the Blower Motor/ Fan - I cleaned those out - I thought this may be causing the cold starting - Does anyone know if something is clogged in the hoses??
Thanks,
Ted
#12
02-11-2008, 02:30 AM
RE: Hard cold start
ORIGINAL: jh818
I have a 98 Camry LE 4 cyl. and have experienced this same problem a number of times. It is the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve). It is a common problem with the 5S-FE engines. Vapor gases from the PCV causes gunk build-up and makes this valve sticky and it gets stuck. The IAC controls your idle speed depending on the engine temp. It has coolant lines flowing in and out of it.
It is a simple problem to fix. You will need to get a spray carb cleaner...ones that won't harm catalytic convertors or oxygen sensors ($10?). Make sure that you have that little tube or straw to spray into small openings. It's the same kind of tube/straw that comes with WD-40 spray cans.
With the engine cold (unstarted), you remove the intake tube from the throttle body. There is also a gray electrical connector to the IAC that you will need to disengage.
You will see a small square hole right in front of the butterfly on the throttle body. Spray a good amount (about2 seconds) of the carb cleaner into this hole to loosen the gunk. Start the car and then push the electrical connector in and out to try to activate the valve. If it still idles low, spray more carb cleaner into the hole and pushthe connector in and outto get the gears moving in there. Don't let the engine get too warm or you'll have to wait until it cools down to repeat the procedure.
Once the IAC is freed, you should hear your idle rev high with the connector engaged, slow when you remove the connector. Push the connector all the way in and keep spraying into that hole. You will notice that your engine will sputter. When it does, let off the spray until it clears the carb cleaner out.
Once that is done, you're good to go. Shut the engine off and put the intake back on. You will need to do this procedure about once a year or so, or when you start having that same problem again. Clean it out at the first sign of the low idle on start up from cold. This will save you $$$ because the mechanics will tell you to replace the IAC valve when all you need to do is clean it out with a can of carb cleaner.
Good luck.
I have included a picture of what the IAC looks like.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1814/A07EA6C931144BD388BB13DDBF9737E7.jpg[/IMG]
I have a 98 Camry LE 4 cyl. and have experienced this same problem a number of times. It is the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC Valve). It is a common problem with the 5S-FE engines. Vapor gases from the PCV causes gunk build-up and makes this valve sticky and it gets stuck. The IAC controls your idle speed depending on the engine temp. It has coolant lines flowing in and out of it.
It is a simple problem to fix. You will need to get a spray carb cleaner...ones that won't harm catalytic convertors or oxygen sensors ($10?). Make sure that you have that little tube or straw to spray into small openings. It's the same kind of tube/straw that comes with WD-40 spray cans.
With the engine cold (unstarted), you remove the intake tube from the throttle body. There is also a gray electrical connector to the IAC that you will need to disengage.
You will see a small square hole right in front of the butterfly on the throttle body. Spray a good amount (about2 seconds) of the carb cleaner into this hole to loosen the gunk. Start the car and then push the electrical connector in and out to try to activate the valve. If it still idles low, spray more carb cleaner into the hole and pushthe connector in and outto get the gears moving in there. Don't let the engine get too warm or you'll have to wait until it cools down to repeat the procedure.
Once the IAC is freed, you should hear your idle rev high with the connector engaged, slow when you remove the connector. Push the connector all the way in and keep spraying into that hole. You will notice that your engine will sputter. When it does, let off the spray until it clears the carb cleaner out.
Once that is done, you're good to go. Shut the engine off and put the intake back on. You will need to do this procedure about once a year or so, or when you start having that same problem again. Clean it out at the first sign of the low idle on start up from cold. This will save you $$$ because the mechanics will tell you to replace the IAC valve when all you need to do is clean it out with a can of carb cleaner.
Good luck.
I have included a picture of what the IAC looks like.
[IMG]local://upfiles/1814/A07EA6C931144BD388BB13DDBF9737E7.jpg[/IMG]
I have been pretending to be HOUSE MD for the past 3 weeks trying to figure out my lady's car's problem.
Problem: Regaurdless of atmospheric temperature, when the block was "cold" the car would start then stall unless the gas pedal was pressed or tapped a little. It would take several attemps to start. When the block was "warm" it started just fine.
Steps taken to "correct" the problem:
Initial Diagnosis: Crappy Fuel Filter
Action taken: Replace Fuel Filter, and while I was at it, replace the spark plugs and wires.
Results: Problem still existant, but it ran smooth with properly gapped plugs.
Second Diagnosis: Dying Alternator
Action Taken: Went to Advanced Auto to test the electrical system and check for CEL codes too.
Results: Battery good but clean the terminals, Alternator good, Starter good, NO CEL codes.
Third Diagnosis: IAC Valve (Idle Air Control Valve) as suggested as possibility but the employees of Adv. Auto
Action Taken: ...well, the part is 200 bucks so, I'm going to attempt the cleaning method as quoted above.
RESULTS: That was the problem, I just sprayed some sensor and cat converter safe carb cleaner in the hole and it starts perfect now!!
This actually seems to be a very common issue with the 4 cylinder Camry as seen here:
https://www.camryforums.com/m_8427/tm.htm
and
https://www.camryforums.com/m_8473/tm.htm
#14
08-13-2015, 12:16 AM
Cold Starting Problem
My wife has a Camry 1998 LE automatic that has just started acting up. The problem is it sputters and is hard to start in the morning especially when it is cold. It only does this first thing in the morning and then is fine the rest of the day. I would suspect a sensor is going out. I first tried some injection cleaner and it seemed to help a little but it's back to doing it again. Does anyone have some stuff for me to check, replace or change?
Thanks,
Brian Cravens
Thanks,
Brian Cravens
#15
05-02-2019, 09:44 PM
Cold start 2001 camry solara 2.2 engine
cold start problem solved changed out Crank Shaft Sensor
my car would not start in morning acted like it was flooded cranked it for ever till it would finally start changed fuel injectors coils all sensors you name it i changed it all it was a dirty crank sensor works fine and idles fine now not a easy fix but worked for me
my car would not start in morning acted like it was flooded cranked it for ever till it would finally start changed fuel injectors coils all sensors you name it i changed it all it was a dirty crank sensor works fine and idles fine now not a easy fix but worked for me
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