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Window washer fluid being sucked out nozzles

Old Nov 29, 2025 | 07:29 PM
  #1  
Elybrook's Avatar
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Default Window washer fluid being sucked out nozzles

Hello
my windshield washer fluid is being sucked out of the nozzles at Highway speeds and sometimes it even flows up my windshield. It can empty the reservoir in 30 minutes. The pump still works fine but I wonder if there is some sort of seal that is bad allowing the Venturi effect to work on the nozzles and suck all the fluid out.
please give me some pointers

2018 Camry Hybrid
 

Last edited by Elybrook; Nov 29, 2025 at 07:31 PM. Reason: More info
Old Dec 1, 2025 | 11:30 PM
  #2  
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This is very strange. If you have checked the pump and it is functioning as it should then I would start with what is cheap and that is replace the nozzles.
Do both nozzles bleed out at speed? Maybe you could verify that it is the vacuum from speed with a leaf blower?
How is the spray pattern? I wonder if some dirt lodged in the nozzle could create the vacuum needed to bleed them out? Maybe gently place a pin in there to verify no blockage.
 
Old Dec 3, 2025 | 12:08 PM
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Default answer from another thread

I was answered on another Toyota page . It looks like its a check valve . I will replace and get back to you.
this is what was sent to me
Eric


this is a very common issue on 2016–2020 Toyota Camry Hybrids (and some gas models too), including your 2018.

What you're experiencing is called windshield washer fluid siphoning or aero-siphoning at highway speeds. The washer nozzles are the hooded/check-valve type mounted on the hood, and when you're driving 60–80 mph, the high-pressure airflow over the hood literally creates enough low pressure (venturi effect) to suck the fluid right out of the reservoir through the nozzles. Sometimes it even gets pulled upward and streaks the windshield.
Is there supposed to be a check valve?

Yes — Toyota installed a one-way check valve inline on almost all of these cars to prevent exactly this. The valve is a small plastic piece (about the size of a AA battery) with ****** fittings, usually zip-tied to the tubing under the hood near the passenger-side strut tower or along the washer hose.

Part number (for reference): 85321-26020 or 85321-06040 (same valve, different generations) – it’s only about $8–$12 at the dealer.
What usually happens
  • The original check valve fails, gets clogged, or the little internal flapper/disc cracks and no longer seals.
  • Some cars even left the factory without one in certain markets (cost-cutting), or it was accidentally omitted during a windshield replacement.
  • Once the check valve stops working, nothing prevents the vacuum from pulling fluid out at highway speed.
How to confirm and fix it
  1. Open the hood and trace the washer hose from the pump (on the bottom of the reservoir) up toward the nozzles.
  2. Look for a small inline cylindrical piece in the hose (usually clear or white plastic). If you don’t see one at all → that’s your problem.
  3. If you do see one, squeeze it or blow through it both ways. It should let air/fluid pass easily toward the nozzles but block completely in the reverse direction. If it flows both ways or is stuck, it’s bad.
Quick permanent fix

Buy the Toyota check valve (or an aftermarket equivalent like Dorman 926-386 or Four Seasons 17650 — they’re the same thing) and splice it into the line as close to the nozzles as possible (the higher up, the less fluid is left in the hose to siphon).

Many owners just add a second valve in series if the original is weak — two check valves work even better than one.

You’ll stop the siphoning 100% once a functioning check valve is in place. The pump working fine is normal — this has nothing to do with the pump itself.
 
Old Dec 5, 2025 | 11:58 PM
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Thank you for the reply! Wow, that is weird but makes a lot of sense too.
I hope you got it all sorted.
 
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