RC...For the last ten years I got the helicopter bug so that's what I've mainly been flying.

For planes, I'm working my way up to a 1/4 size.

I'm limited to what fits in the car and my biggest has a 80" wingspan. Kind of looks like a cessna. Top wing type. A.K.A. as slow flyers or trainers.

Im also addicted to the Lancair. Sexy and sleek.

My next project to which I just recently got the plans for it: (100" or 118" wingspan options models)
Lancair IV Airplane from Wendell Hostetler's Plans - Kit Cutters Inc.- Remote Control Airplane

I'm not buying the precut kit but will have to buy the premade fiberglass parts. This baby will sport a dual head 60cc. gas engine.

Presently flying a smaller version of it with a 72" wingspan. It's electric and goes just about 100mph. Might convert it to gas powered with a 20cc.

Below what it looks like but its not my video. Those guys most likely crashed it as you can see at the very end where the wing tipped over. Bummer for them.


Back to the car. Thanks for time. Should finally be done with it today before it rains.

 

Great stuff, thanks for posting!

 

Back to my car dilemma...

Today I was able to remove both camshaft and oil pump pulleys. My homemade tool (2x4 poplar board and lag bolts) did the job.

Those two seals in particular seem like the ones that need replacing. The crankshaft does not but as mentioned, its being replaced as well.

So off I go the local auto parts stores (auto zone and Rileys. one next to the other...go figure) with a smile of my small accomplishment to find a seal removal tool.

I found and purchased the double hook seal remover with the heavy duty rivets and flat bar.

Looks exactly like the link I posted for the knockoff one that Harbor freight sells which has bad reviews.

Anyways, I dont see how this could possibly fit between the seal and shaft(s) without possibly scratching them(?)

Given...its not the blind seal type from Lisle which I can not find locally and going to have to order it and wait another three to four days to get this car going. (Im hoping)

The videos I find for the double hook type is being used to remove "other" seals than the ones I need to. Given the long handle and lack of space between engine and wheel well, I did not even try. So its going back to the auto parts store.

I've seen videos of some drilling, a screw and prying and or slide hammer, but again, with engine out of car. Not an option for me.

Good grief....charlie brown. Patience indeed is a virtue.

 

End of the day...

Seals still in place. Yeah, I know...this guys takes forever. Time is on my side.

Today I removed valve cover to work on that area. Two of the nuts I was able to turn by hand. Not a good thing for sure.

Cleaned the oil deposits on top of header. Now I know why my neighbors gave me strange looks when driving back home (hot engine) unlike when leaving. Seems the burn oil smell was trailing and getting to them but I was in my little A/C world.

Also cleaned out "some" carbon deposits inside valve area. The most time spent was cleaning this with small pieces of rags and hemostats. Everything inside has a nice orange/red hue to it. Maybe some photos for other to see will help.

Most felt like semi dry paste. Not much considering the 90K. Then again, what do I know given Im here for help.

I can actually turn cam shaft (with pulley attached, of course) by hand. That must be a good thing. Rubber gloves and kung-fu grip help. ;-)

I just got news from an good old friend while typing this. He is having brain surgery tomorrow morning. Small tumor he said. He has slurred speech. Wow is all I can say. Heading out to visit him shortly and hopefully not for the last time.

Thanks for support.

 

Eureka!

Well after having to deal with the dilemma of the seals and the possibility of having to order the LISLE blind seal removing tool plus waiting another 3-4 days until it got here, the good old incandescent light bulb lit up and...VOILA!

Used a paint can opening key/tool. Has the right curve and hardness to remove the seals. Had all three seals removed in less than five minutes.

I cant wipe the grin off my face. Used other end of key to celebrate my small victory.

This could possibly be my last post. I just had to share this immediately. I wonder if anyone else has ever used such as well.

This forum rocks!

 

Good call on using the paint can key, cheap and easy to find.

Same here for AutoZone and Riley's being within viewing distance of each other.

Might use some sealant on the valve cover gasket then alternate torquing of nuts until the torque stabilizes after the gasket has fully compressed.

Let's hope for the best with your friend.

 

"Might" use some sealant on valve cover gasket...

Ok...mo'questions...

Reading around found out about this stuff...
Lexus Toyota Factory Black Engine Oil Gasket Sealer Fipg 00295 00103 | eBay

However, also read warnings to avoid it as you have no clue how long its been on the shelf. Such warnings does not specify the shelf life to begin with. So have to take some posting tongue in cheek.

Some folks just do not disclose complete information and just create more questions. Makes you wonder why they post to begin with as they really are not helping those needing it...but I digress.

Anyways...which one of the following two could possibly substitute this FIPG stuff?

Gasket Sealants : Permatex® Ultra Rubber Gasket Sealant & Dressing

or

Gasket Makers : Permatex® the Right Stuff® Gasket Maker

or perhaps some other or take the change and go to the dealer to purchase this FIPG stuff?

I happen to have a tube of red high temp RTV gasket maker but also read that this stuff will eventually leak. No clue how long eventually is. Once again, tongue in cheek.

By deduction, Im guessing very little gets applied at the sharp corners where the metal half moons are located given this is where I had to remove "some" factory grey colored sealant inside valve cover, which was hard.

Im undecided to whether remove these half moons as they are not giving any indication of leaking. The grey sealant squeezed outside these half moons is still pliable. Perhaps I should just go ahead and do them anyways.

I've come across TWO torquing specs and given the year of my car, the nuts that hold valve cover down are either 17 or 34 in-lbs.

That said, I will be cleaning out engine with a foam degreaser once its all put back together to finalize areas I could not get to. I would hate to go with 17 and find out later after it leaks that it should have been 34 and have to clean engine again.

Also read where you torque down the two in the middle first then the others. Drive around some and repeat if necessary.

Surface mating areas has been cleaned with brake cleaner and ready for assembly.

I might even end up painting the valve cover with some high temp enamel just for the "hallibut". No clue what color would look nice. Probably red but my car is light grey.

Im taking a small break today from this project/task.

I hope I have not become a burden. I could have gone to the "other" nation forum but this one is exclusive to camrys and why Im here instead.

Thanks for addressing my concerns,questions, etc..

 

Toyota replaced some gaskets with Form-In-Place Gasket maker. Toyota sells its own branded sealant, there are aftermarket products. You can buy it from a Toyota dealer, online perhaps from Amazon (who knows), etc, or use an aftermarket FIPG.

For corners, the gasket material needs to fill gaps which a spray or a gasket dressing can not do. Look at Permatex Ultra Black gasket maker, etc. The factory spec is to apply dabs at the corners. If the half moons are not leaking then suggest not removing them.

If you want apply a dressing or sealant to the gasket (use the same Ultra Black) top assure the gasket seals to the engine and valve cover. If using a sealant, etc clean all surfaces, then let the material cure for the specified time before starting engine or contact with oil.

The torque spec changed with later model engines. Use 33 (not 34) ft-lb. Step torque all nuts working up to 33. Then make sure the torque holds over time.

People have used red, black paint. This will also help with issues of corrosion if a problem.

No burden, this is what this site is for.

Do you or others know about model helicopters? Have toyed with buying a low cost version for fun as have a big yard. Some are pricey other reasonable cost, lots of choices. As a kid of course flew model A/C but only on a string (long before RC) then into model rockets. Too many trees for rockets.

 

Thanks for reply. Your answers are spot on what I needed.

As for helis,for the last ten years when I was finally able to afford them. (empty nester symdrome)

Its a love hate relationship. Love to fly'em hate to crash'em...unfortunately it will happen.

AS the saying goes, you get what you pay for...sort of. Given, some brands are less expensive than others but as you said "pricey". Now you know the other reason why Im working on my car. Money saved is going into the hobby, eventually.

There are what we call the mall or wal-mart series aka "toys" and then there is hobby grade.

The mall series come with a short range unprogrammable radio and good luck finding parts. Most are coaxial, with two pairs of PLASTIC blades and plastic frames. One pair of blades on top of the other and they counter rotate making it easy to fly. Some have a small motor on back for direction and or forward/reverse maneuvers. Some of us own one fly indoors in a rainy day and you are jonesing to fly. Cant handly much wind if any and they have whats called fixed pitch. You control vertical axis with motor speed.

Hobby grade on the other hand, are like the real thing. Variable pitch CARBON FIBER blades. Aircraft aluminum parts, higher grade ball bearings. Some have plastic frames while others carbon fiber. They do not come with a radio and you do need a programmable six channel radio (minimum). Definitely not a toy. Can and will harm you if you dont respect it and follow safety guidelines.

Helis sizes are determined by blade size in mm. I presently fly a 600 class gasoline engine. (20cc)

Depending on size of heli, you can expect to spend around 1k.

You can go internal combustion (gas or glow fuel aka nitro). Some like the smell and sound of engine.

You can go electric motor plus batts/charger.

Either one has its plus and or minuses. Pick your poison.

Then there is the radio which you can spend as little as 250 or as high as 1500. yeah...yikes. The saying goes, by as much radio as you ever going to need in the hobby as its most likely will be with you for a very long time...unlike the models.

These are just the highlights of the hobby. Its a passion.

I would highly recommend that if you do want to fly hobby grade helis that you definitely get yourself a simulator for the computer where you can learn and have unlimited crashes. Just press a button to reset and try again. Being able to just hover AND land it in one piece is just the first quest.

REAL FLIGHT is a great simulator that comes with a radio. The latest version is 7 and cost about 200. You can get older "used" version for half that.

I will also recommend to find a local flying field where on hand help can be had as well as seeing whats what.

Go to
modelaircraft.org/clubsearch.aspx
search for a local field.

For a helicopter forum I will recommend Runryder.com Great bunch of guys willing to help and more information than the average guy can handle.

Best of luck. Anything else I can help you with helis, let me know. That stuff, I know.