Yes I think we're talking about the same thing. I was calling the larger 14mm bolt in the rear of ALT the pivot bolt as that is where the ALT
pivots up and down on. I got that bolt off fine. On the ALT tension adjuster bracket I have not loosened the bottom bolt yet where it attaches to the engine. The "pivot" block bolt which I am calling the adjusting lock bolt is the one I snapped the head off. I have not tried to remove the
actual long adjusting bolt (in the picture that is the one I marked with white to reset tension to roughly the same area) as I thought I had to loosen the adjusting lock bolt first on that pivot block. So I just now realized that there are no threads in the pivot block which could save me!
I thought it was threaded but it appears to be smooth and the only threads are as you said in the alternator itself. I did not see that with all the corrosion on my car. I thought there was something on the bracket that made it lock. So I will follow your advice and remove the bottom engine bracket bolt.
This should allow me to pull the bracket with the pivot block still attached via the long adjusting bolt. After that i should be able to see threads and hopefully grab on with my vice grips and keep oiling. Do you think it would be OK to hit that part of the alternator with some heat from a propane torch? I know when I switched my sway bar links out it was much easier with them heated up. I just dont want to damage the alternator. Thanks.

 

The broken bolt screws into the block. The bolt goes through the ear on the alternator and into the block. Unbolt the adjusting arm at the bottom and remove the arm and block.

Was the broken bolt frozen in the block and broke off? Some thread will be exposed. You can try vice grips.

There are lots of posts on removing stuck bolts. Best route is to drill a straight smaller hole in the middle of the bolt. Then increase the drill size as much as you can without damaging the threads. Drill from the back side of the bolt which is flatter.

A standard right flute drill from the back will encourage the bolt to unscrew.

Use caution when drilling as you don't want to break the drill off in the hole.

There should be no reason to heat the alternator. Caution the body is made of aluminum.

 

I am at the point to "pop" out the crank & cam seals, any quick or easy way to do this? I tried sharpening a paint can opener to try and get it between the crank shaft and lip but no luck. i am thinking of drilling 3 holes in the crank seal and putting in some 4 inch long wood screws and attaching them to my pulley puller. I could only find 3 inch long metal screws which arent long enough but the wood screw threads seem similar just dont know how tough they are.
Would that work?
It seems as if the cam seal might be easier to remove since the outer edge is accessible to grab with some kind of tool since it sits flush at the lip which is further out than the outer portion of the camshaft housing. But I assume it will be in there extremely well since it been so long.
Any advice on how to get these out would be appreciated as well as any re-install tricks.

Here is my update if any interest. The old belts i pulled off that had been on the car for 213K miles and almost 15 1/2 years were a genuine Toyota timing belt and power steering belt and a Bando alt/AC belt. The timing belt looked surprisingly good, only 1 tooth was starting to fray, the other 2 drive belts seemed stiff and cracked, I am shocked they never snapped! I am prodding along. I dont get very much free time to work on the car, 10 min here 15 min there if im lucky 1/2 hour. I did have to drill and retap the alternator fin where the adj block locks it up as I did snap that bolt early on in the project. It also was a chore to get the 90mm long adj bolt free (almost snapped that - definitely twisted it a hair) - I ran that through a die and also tapped the adj block and its nice and smooth now. Used alot of heat, oil, wax and a cordless impact gun which I ended up buying to get it unstuck! The cordless impact gun also took my crank bolt off pretty easily.
Ive had to make 3 custom tools to hold the crank, cam and oil pump pulleys. I have changed out the water pump & thermostat ( i used a Stant thermostat that didnt have a jiggle valve, it didnt seem as good quality as the Toyota thermostat that has been in there for 9 years). I have completed putting in the new oil pump shaft seal and o-ring gasket. I have cleaned up everything pretty good except for the timing belt covers themselves. Any advice on how to remove the sticky black oily mess on the covers? I tried alcohol, brake cleaner, soap & water. Who knows maybe I am melting the plastic over. When I started I aligned all timing marks and marked the old belt and sprockets so hopefully if these next two seals go well reassembly should be quite easier!

 

Great job to date!

The link below my help for seal removal with screws:

Replacing the propeller shaft seal without disassembly

Be careful not to drill into the block or nick the cam/crank shaft.

Try something like kerosene or diesel and a plastic abrasive pad.

 

So I was able to get out the crank seal by drilling three 1/16" holes. The link you supplied was very good. I just drilled SLOW until the bit just broke thru the seal. I used #6 x 3/4" metal screws and then pulled them equally with a pair of vice grips.
I tried using a pick at first but had no luck and I didnt want to mess up the crank shaft. Im thinking my seals are hard as rocks they are so old. I will be attempting the removal of the cam seal tonight (hopefully if I get some free time after this post). I picked up a 90 degree angle drill attachment at Home Depot today to drill the cam seal.

My question now is my seal kit came with a tube of lube. I know I definitely lube the inside lip of the seal but do I also do the outer edge and should I also do the housing the seal sits into both the outer edge and inner shaft? I have cleaned the shelf where the seal will sit with brake cleaner and a q-tip. Will lubing everything makes these seals slide in easier?

I made a pusher from 2" PVC pipe for the crank and a pusher from a 1 1/2" PVC pipe for the cam seal. I will use a large washer with the respective bolts to push in these seals.

Assuming all goes well and I start to reassemble everything my question is should I just hand tighten the cam and crank pulley bolts and then put the timing belt on? If I try and torque the cam to 27 ft lbs and crank to 80 ft lbs I assume there is a chance the shafts could move and
make me out of time. So then once I get the belt on would I then torque to full specs? Or just torque both pulley before the belt goes on.
I do have my homemade tools to hold them but I think there is a little play in each one just not sure if its enough to screw up the timing marks or not.

If all goes well with the pulleys and belt and then 2 CW revolutions says timing is good I would then want to start the engine before buttoning everything back up. Would I start it without the drive belt pulley attached or is that dangerous or do i just put the crank bolt in with just the timing belt crank pulley & belt guide, there again meaning can the crank bolt just be hand tight or somewhat tight versus torqued up to 80 ft lbs?
I guess this is where im confused, to test the engine is it ok to just have crank timing pulley with belt guide and then crank bolt or do i need to put back the crank drive pulley that accommodates the alt, PS, & AC drive belts and have it torqued to 80 ft lbs?
Thanks

 

Great job!

The link below will provides all you need to know about installing seals.

https://sealing.com/fileadmin/docs/L...stallation.pdf

You want the lube on the shaft and lip of the seal. Not on the outer case circumference.

Note in the link the use of a cone on the shaft. The idea is to prevent nicking the seal doing install.

Examine the shafts for a groove caused by wear of the lip of the seal over time. If there is a groove problem and there is travel room in the hole. The seal can be installed a little deeper to move the lip passed the groove.

There are also thin sleeves available that slide over the shaft.

For the belt install. Suggest the following:

Torque the cam bolt upon cam pulley installation.

Install crank parts required to install timing belt. Install belt with with cam/crank pulley aligned. Install lower timing belt cover and crank bolt but don't tighten bolt to spec.

If the spark plugs are out. The crank can be easily rotated CW to check for proper belt installation. Rotate crank CW as you outlined to check marks. You want these marks to be spot on!

Once satisfied tighten crank bolt using the same pulley holding tool you used to loosen the bolt. Don't be concerned about the pulleys moving as they will move together.

You could start the engine at this point. Make sure any electrical cables connected to the Alt are protected from being grounded, touching each other, etc.

Most times if the belt is installed OK, the engine will run normal on the first start up. It has happened, even with a properly installed timing belt (cam/crank pulleys aligned), the engine runs poorly. Why? Then over a few starts up (in garage, etc) runs normally.

If this happens don't go looking for something that may not be wrong.

Once satisfied with the belt install. Reinstall all the other parts, belts, etc. Be sure to again disconnect the battery prior to installing the alt.

The key here is making sure the cam/crank pulleys are aligned AFTER rotating the crank 2 times CW.

During belt installation it has happened the cam pulley moves but the crank pulley does not. Then the cam/crank timing is off.

Once the belt is installed, the crank can be rotated all you want. The cam/crank alignment will not change.

This issue is when installing the belt, one pulley can move as the belt is installed but the other does not.

 

Good discussion I have to do the timing belt on my car and understand how you only have time for 30 minutes one day and 15 minutes the next. Sometimes it takes me a few weeks to repair but I would rather take my time and do it right.