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  #11  
Old 07-25-2015, 10:12 AM
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Get a Haynes.

See private message.
 
  #12  
Old 07-25-2015, 10:04 PM
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awesome!! thanks very much for the link! ill be doing this next weekend I believe.
 
  #13  
Old 07-26-2015, 06:58 PM
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Great!
 
  #14  
Old 08-03-2015, 06:17 AM
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I haven't started on this yet. I ended up working this weekend and today. Anyways, how do I find TDC on #1 cylinder on this engine? I know how to do it on small & big block chevys, but never did it on this engine.
 
  #15  
Old 08-03-2015, 11:16 AM
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Before you take the harmonic balancer off. Rotate the crank by hand (use socket on balancer bolt) CW until the ign timing line on the harmonic balancer is aligned with the 0 degree mark on the timing belt cover. This is TDC No 1.

For camshaft pulley, rotate CW until hole in pulley spoke is aligned with the mark on cam bearing cap.

Once any repairs are complete. Install belt on crank pulley and reassemble the lower crank area, timing cover, balancer. This will allow use of the balancer and timing cover marks when checking if cam/crank pulley timing is correct.
 
  #16  
Old 08-03-2015, 11:58 AM
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Thx...I wasn't sure if every revolution the timing marks passed each other, it was a complete revolution.
 
  #17  
Old 08-03-2015, 06:46 PM
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A complete firing cycle requires 2 crank rotations but each rotation is the same. For every 2 crank rotations, the cam rotates once.

If the timing belt were installed. You would need to rotate the crank until the No 1 piston is at TDC AND the cams were oriented for the No 1 piston to be on the compression stroke. This could be more then one crank revolution.

Since the belt is broken, the cam/crank alignment is not yet set. Every rotation of the crank is a complete cycle of piston up and down. No 1 TDC at 0 degrees will happen on every rotation.

Once the belt is installed, cam orientation determines when the piston is on the compression stroke or exhaust stroke when at TDC.
 
  #18  
Old 08-05-2015, 11:56 PM
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The SS is on the road again!! Only 2 hiccups: the motor bracket for the strut rod sucks taking off and on with a reg straight wrench & not an offset one. The first few threads for tension pulley in the block stripped. I got a 1/4" longer metric bolt, same grade, at True Value. Oh, the oil pump housing O-ring/gasket that came in the kit was about 1/4" too long or stretched. I cut a small piece off & it seems fine. I only replaced this gasket. I didn't replace the crankshaft, camshaft, or oil pump seals. They all appeared fine & not leaking. Only the oil pump housing appeared to be leaking. We'll see if this worked or not, but if it is getting into the housing, maybe the seal was bad.
Timing was reset to 10deg BTDC & now I need to replace the VSS.
Thank you very much for the help!!
Now for the '04 Camry....maybe
Chris
 
  #19  
Old 08-06-2015, 10:59 AM
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Great job. Thanks for posting back with the results.
 
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